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:D ALWP... I guess I deserve that for inappropriate use of CAPS!

:) Not too onerous at all, no. I have a pot controlling gain, and a button toggling on/off, so it feels hacky to have to have the button override the gain reading from the pot. Not really a huge deal - just clunky. I felt like I might be missing something more akin to play/stop. Thanks for...

One follow-up question... there doesn't appear to be an end() method for AudioSynthWaveForm to correspond to begin() What is the correct method of stopping the output? For now I'm just setting amplitude to 0, but that means I end up saving the last-on amplitude so I can simulate stop/start at a...

Just so that this thread isn't a total waste of space, I'll attach the very basic example I used to scope what was coming out of A14 in case someone else has the same question and is just looking for a copy/paste starting point #include <Audio.h> #include <Wire.h> // GUItool: begin...

False alarm! I think I have what I need after playing around with the GUI audio tool. It just seemed like overkill for my very basic needs, but looking at https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/gui/index.html?info=AudioSynthWaveform and putting two elements on the GUI map (dragging a waveform synth and...

I don't need recorded audio (SD card) or even fancy synths. My goal is just to have a reasonably clean output directly from the teensy to generate a tone (sine, square, sawtooth, or triangle) at line output level into an external mono amp driving a subwoofer for the purposes of a classroom...

NodeMCU is really easy to work with. I'd never touched LUA before, but it's very straightforward as long as you're comfortable w/ its use of closures (follows patterns very similar to javascript. particularly NodeJS). Get the pre-compiled firmware here...

I just thought I'd chime in and mention that I'm using a couple of ESP8266's paried with Teensy 3.1's and have had excellent stability out of the NodeMCU firmware. Instead of using AT commands over serial, you send LUA code. What's more, is that you can put some of your functionality into LUA...

Perfect, thanks. The relay board is one of the popular opto-isolated boards on which the coil/optocoupler power can be provided externally. I did have to use a level shifter for the board's 5v logic, but its definitely less than 10mA to drive the 3.3v side of that. Thanks again!

Thread title pretty much sums it up. I'm controlling a relay board where 4 of the 8 channels will be kept HIGH 99% of the time or more. This project will run 24/7... does that cause extra wear and tear on the MCU?

I guess I don't really count the "beta" status of the linux builds against them... when beta 1.1.18 came out they promoted it over 1.1.15 GA as the preferred version for anyone on linux (or at least anyone on ubuntu 12.04+). I didn't have any problems with 1.1.18. As far as I can tell, they ARE...

The T3.1 has a somewhat high noise floor on the ADC. I don't doubt you could get 100kS/s out of a Teensy 3.1 though, if the noise isn't a huge concern. If you're considering inexpensive non-conventional DAQ solutions, you might want to take a look at the Saleae Logic series as well (the logic...

Got 'em today. What a fun little display! I have two of them working on one T3.1 - all pins shared except DC and CS, of course. Two of these gives me 320x480 of pixel real-estate to work with for $16 on a pjrc-supported product! Very nice. One minor problem - the backlight uniformity is...

It does indeed - thanks!

Thanks Kurt. That matches what I calculated based on the board's dimensions that are on that page. Really only 2.1-2.4 could fit within those dimensions, so I guess that's close enough :)

The product page is... erm... sparse :D http://www.pjrc.com/store/display_ili9341.html What size is it? Does it support touch? If no, is there a compatible resistive touch overlay?

I didn't get much from the attached code fragment and have done little w/ HID stuff on Teensy, but out of curiosity, how confident are you that the timeout-handling code does what it should? Perhaps the timeout handling needs work, but you were never running into timeouts on the T3+W7 setup...

I'll just leave this here... http://xkcd.com/378/ C-x C-c

Perhaps... but I'd imagine you'd still be quite limited in terms of amount of traffic, concurrency, etc. And what would the cost be? Higher end ethernet solutions that work w/ microcontrollers end up costing $20-$30, at which point you'd still potentially be bettter-served by paring a teensy 3.x...

As others here and on stackexchange already covered, letting the linux side of the Yun handle SSL makes much more sense. When I need solid network performance (especially if there will be any connection concurrency, SSL, etc), I prefer to have a linux/microprocessor combo of some kind. This...

I just wanted to weigh in and say that I've got 8 of the OSH Teensy 3.1's and have had no problems whatsoever with the USB ports... the tightness and robustness of the USB ports don't seem to be any different than the Teensy 3.0's I purchased directly from PJRC, but the OSH price is unbeatable...

This material has great diffusion properties for its thickness. The thinner of the two is obviously more flexible, but will provide less diffusion: https://www.inventables.com/technologies/light-diffuser-film-rolls However, this isn't something you'd want to feel in direct contact w/ the skin...

Thanks for the heads-up, Paul! I ordered two :) Purple FTW!

On a different (but more on-topic) note, here's a trick to make the WS28xx LED's work a LOT better for POV. Use a good diffuser! In my limited experimentation w/ POV on these modules, I was floored by how vastly improved the POV effect was by adding a diffuser. I suspect it has something to do...

You most certainly CAN by leveraging the PRUs (as w/ LEDscape). I'm currently using a slightly hacked-up version of Yona Appletree's fork of LEDscape in my largest (5200 LED) project, but I've stuck w/ the teensy for the rest of my work. I actually built a shield that holds the HCT245's, RJ-45...

Lookin' very nice! Yes, definitely put the colon mapping elsewhere, as they don't really correspond to segments, digit positions, or numeric values, all of which drive the structure of the map.

+5V to pins 1 and 20 GND to pins 10 and 19 On the OctoWS2811 library page, Paul was kind enough to annotate a diagram of the 74HCT245 to indicate where you'll need +5 and GND. It's wired up as a unidirectional buffer:

pin 19 is OE, not VCC. You may be getting +5V on the output pins at the moment, but I can assure you that w/o +5V on the DIR pin, you're not going to get anything but noise.

Not sure what you mean by array indices starting at 1 instead of 0... that's certainly not the case. It's just C/C++ w/ a small amount of "convenience" built into the arduino IDE, but you're correct about needing more dimensions in the arrays than what I put in the example code. Your current...

So sorry... I was way too hasty. If you tried the first version I posted, it had some silly mistakes. They jumped out when I tabbed back over. Make sure if you're playing w/ that code that that you grabbed around the time of this follow-up!

Here you go. This ~should~ be a single-digit version of what I was trying to describe that is based off of your code (and what I believe to be your pixel mappings). There may be parse errors... hacked this in a text editor on my lunch break! :D As you can see, this approach eliminates all of...

Actually, what you've implemented is not what I was suggesting. The idea was to abstract the idea of 7 segments away from specific LED indexes. What you've done is combine them in a 3-dimensional array, so your structure is a lot more complex (and repetitive) than it needs to be. Additionally...

You're missing +5V on the DIR pin of the HCT245 (pin 1). It's also good to ground the GND pin even though you've technically grounded it on the other side @ the OE pin.

Would the series resistor really do much as its placed at the moment? (e.g. it's not in series unless that breadboard is something special)

I'm looking for a bit more variety of products like this: http://www.balticnetworks.com/super-adhesive-abs-plastic-pcb-stand-offs-4-pack.html?gclid=CNCFk5zEnLwCFacDOgodHXIAsQ I can't seem to track any others down. Most of the adhesive-backed mounts are the push-through kind (no screws). I'm...

Wow... I'm glad you got it sorted out, but I have no clue as to what collision may have occurred between those two header files (that wouldn't have caused compilation errors). In any case, with all of the time and effort you've put into signal quality, you probably have a super-noise-resistant...

I've started looking into building an HDMI lag tester similar to this: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=89&products_id=212 My initial plan was to build it out of a beaglebone black, using svgalib and a reasonably fast photodiode. Before I go too far down...

One last thing! In addition to needing a 100 Ohm resistor near the transceiver, you probably need one where you're transitioning from CAT5 to whatever stranded copper you're using for the last 12+ inches. I mis-measured on one of my CAT6 cuts and when I tried to extend it a few extra inches w/...

Ahh - wait, I see. You're running power to the connector for the strip, and then FROM that connector back to the teensy? I'm not sure what the pros/cons of such a layout would be, but it's certainly different than what I've seen elsewhere :)

I'm not sure I follow correctly - are you using CAT5 to carry power to the strip? I can't see how you're getting 4.9V at the strip if that's the case (maybe at low brightness levels, but I'd expect that to drop well below 4V at full-strip-white). Also, where is your resistor for the data? For...

One other test tip if you're playing w/ a scope or an analyzer. In addition to testing at full #FFFFFF, try #AAAAAA and #555555 as your test colors - they're a perfect 0101010 cadence so any bit errors tend to jump out a little more. Using grayscale values and cycling between dim and bright is...

Darn :( I wish I had some other suggestions for you. I think you're onto something re: your findings with the scope and signal quality. If I just run the teensy w/o any LEDs connected, the signal after a 100 Ohm cap and 20' of CAT-6 looks almost perfect. Once I connect the strips, the noise...

That auction sold out, but it appears they list them regularly. I'm almost positive they're sourcing from the same manufacturer as AWC: http://www.awcwire.com/part.aspx?partname=e30-1 http://www.awcwire.com/part.aspx?partname=et-30-1 (not as cheap, but still 1/3 the cost of Alpha wire for the...

The timing doesn't precisely match the spec sheet, but it does match the general behavior of these LEDs. The 0 bit needs to be at least 280ns, and the 1 bit at 750ns. What's surprising is how small the delay between bits can be (as low as 1ns) if the signal is nice and clean. What's more, if...

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but how does the cheap eBay PTFE-insulated stuff compare? $15 for 100' is much easier to swallow... is the Alpha wire that much better...

I doubt it's anythign wrong w/ the code. Nothing jumps out, and your symptoms sound like common behavior for WS281x LEDs (they're actually picky little buggers compared to the old WS2801's) Is the flicker always toward the end of the strip (or at least never on the first few pixels)? I've found...

I built a 7-segment digital clock and implemented it much as mortonkopf describes. Each segment is illuminated by two LEDs, and I built a few arrays to make leveraging those LEDs simpler. I numbered the segments top-to-bottom/left-to-right, and then built arrays to track which segments matched...

Not XSS, but relevant :)

Actually, no. I have 6 MeanWell SP-320-5 ~300W PSUs. I just did testing w/ a single PSU and pair of strips so I could see if my max cable length (plus a few feet) was going to work OK. I was having so many problems at once, I had to simplify and test that scenario as a sanity check. (BTW...

Hard to be sure w/o some details of how things are wired up (e.g. how are they powered, whats tied back to GND, etc), but I'd wager that its grounding issue or that you forgot to connect pins 15&16 on the teensy.