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I'd used an older/larger converter design and was hoping to avoid going that route. But that pololu looks small enough to fit on my board without too much pain. Thanks! Gonna suck not being able to use the boards I already have, but oh well. I was hoping the 2.0 supply would last another 6...

I designed the PCBs for my project around the 2.0, which i'm aware is going away (sooner than I thought). It's interfacing an ADS1115 and a 3rd-party 5-volt UART device. I am only using 6 pins on the 2.0: Vcc, Gnd, TX1, RX1, SDA, SCL The UART header only has TX, RX, and Ground The ADS1115...

When I use FrequencyMeasure on an LC, I am getting 60hz mains as a reading (LC powered by USB on a desktop pc) while testing the circuit. To me, this shows that any fluctuations on the power/ground line will be echoed upon the Teensy Freq Libraries. In application, it will be powered by vehicle...

OK, So what about the floating input? I have no idea if it will ever actually have a voltage, or just float high. I know for sure it goes to ground. 12 volts constant Fuel injector (12 ohms) or ignition coil (3 ohms) Pulsed ground I'm tapping the pulsed ground. Given the relatively low...

addendum: I'm reading a pulsed ground that fires a fuel injector or ignition coil of a vehicle. As such, technically the wire will be floating high (12v) behind an inductive coil, then pulled ground by the ECU to fire the coil. I have a 500 ohm resistor in-line to pin16. Do I need to do...

Hello, Using TeensyLC to toggle a darlington array based on frequency input (33hz low end, 48hz high end). Right now I have the example Serial_Output loaded up on the breadboard. While it seems to work fine for a signal that pulses 3.3V on/off, it does not seem to work well for a signal that...

The next button won't activate for any of the arduino locations on my computer. Need to update to use T3. /Applications/Arduino 1.0.app (1.0) /Applications/Arduino.app (0023) /Users/name/Applications (empty) /Users/name/Documents/Arduino/ (sketchbook folder)

Would like to use the T3 to interface to the HH10D Humidity Sensor using the frequency output. I have it working with a Pro Mini, and have used the library on T2, would like to use on T3. Has the lib been ported yet, or is porting neccesary?

Here is today's back-and-forth.

No idea what it was set to- the menu is stuck in japanese/chinese right now and I really don't know how to use a scope effectively, even if it were in english. I know how to move positions and that's about it. I've not gotten to your suggestions yet due to time and money, but I'm going to add...

Paul, here is some information that might help you understand the situation.

That's what I thought. Got this from Randy already, so I may have useful feedback finally from somebody that actually knows the environment.

Paul, what is the functional difference between INPUT with the pin written HIGH, and INPUT_PULLUP? I am currently using the former, would the latter do anything different functionally? I contacted a person that does on board computers for racing, and he said he can help a little bit, but not...

Thanks Paul, I will definitely keep that in mind. I haven't had a chance to do much testing (still dealing with homework), but I can try using alligator clips to ground the shield. I haven't really figured out how to use the scope I have, but what would be the best way to look at the noise...

what would be the best way to ground the RJ50 cable? it still has to be plugged/unplugged from the circuit board on both ends if needed, but i can't find any shielded RJ50 connectors.

I did get some prelim screenshots of the boards, not sure how much they will help (A significant amount was changed from these to the finals):

All of the electrical is in the passenger footwell, the box is in the driver sail window, controller is on the front halo bar. (That's me in the red shirt)

Here is the manual for the box that is used in many of the other cars: http://www.msdignition.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=15032387238 "The MSD Ignition features a capacitor which is quickly charged (within one millisecond) with 460 - 480 volts and stores it until the ignition is...

We use a completely different ignition and wiring structure than most cars (I'm sure Wozzy can say, some cars, like ours, are delicately wired to the NHRA specification, with all wires loomed and identified....some, like the one I'm dealing with, look like rats nests...but it works, so they...

That would be great Paul. Probably would have saved me a lot of **** chasing. No. The cable is 100% sealed from the display enclosure (aluminum) to the controller enclosure (plastic). I concur. This is my best guess. I have a scope, but I haven't really learned how to use it effectively...

I'm slowly learning it. I've gotten layout and schematicing mostly figured out, but I haven't gotten to the point of generating CNC files yet. When I started this project 1.5 years ago, I didn't know the first thing about it. Wozzy, yes that's what it is. After I saw what Biondo's are selling...

I'm trying to do what I can with what I have. I've emptied my savings account and I have $24.81 in my checking account right now, nevermind unpaid school tuition. I spent $7,000 on these last year at Mouser alone (I live 2 miles from their texas HQ, at least that part makes experimenting cheap...

It's more of, I'm working on a negative budget with 5 people mad at me right now. I need simple fixes that I can try without spending $20 on experimental cables and $22 on teensy's (I already found one potentially burned out- parts of ports B, E, and F are completely unresponsive to code)). I'm...

Thoughts, anyone?

Paul, I've had to put this aside for a bit but I'm back on it, but I'm not using INPUT_PULLUP, just input pulled high. Perhaps this is part of my problem? I have a slew of 430 ohm resistors (I bought 500 at 3 cents each last year, an EOL product mouser was trying to offload) if I have to go that...

The bounce library on Teensy. Yes I am 7 foot Cat50 cable from Winford Engineering, shielded (shielding is not grounded) See previous statement Both, in my case. Getting class credit and trying to build something I can sell.

Paul, any idea why it triggered the bounce circuit? The only thing I can see is that the teensy stayed at operational voltage, but the digital pin registered a low through the pullup resistor?

Yes, the big issue with the ignition screwing up the bit-shift system was through grounding. If we put 40 feet of #4 wire between the box and the chassis, it worked fine. 2 feet of #18, it screwed up. On these ones, I have 500uF FM capacitor across the input lines. this doesnt help with the...

I was working with paul over email significantly but he moved me to the forum. it's something so simple (Control 3 7-segment numbers) but between ignition interference, voltage issues, and a plethora of other stuff, something that should have cost $150 at most, has instead cost The better part...

Not sure what you're asking for Paul? Everything has been in your inbox at some point or another (same project I've been dealing with for ~6 months). When the starter is engaged, the board shuts off (lack of voltage- expected) but the teensy (2.0) changes a number up or down. The numbers can...

On the racecar, dad was running the valvelash tonight, and noticed the numbers on the dial board changing. The numbers can only change via the bounce command.... I can't think of a reason for it to happen unless the teensy chip is staying powered up, but the 5V line is otherwise falling under...

I use the PCD Nokia 8500 display but there are some from Adafruit much cheaper. You should have used a teensy++, if you didn't. The extra pins make it easier to drive an LCD if you're going to have a very involved I/O stream. But that's just me.

My thought: Use a zener to hold the voltage at 5V coming out of the battery pack, and diodes to prevent the circuits from colliding.

I solder my own pins. iron at 275F, and hit each pin for about 2 seconds, with 3 seconds between pins. I've yet to find anything at mouser with a significant pin length on both sides. Close, but no cigar.

Happens to the best of us.

I think your issue is that when you open via a sketch, you get the old arduino w/o Teensy. When you open the proper arduino by hand, you have teensy. Teensy only loads onto ONE arduino install unless you specify otherwise. IE on my computer, I can right click, and open with arduino 0022...

So when is the joystick button supposed to be released? The next time you press the button? never? After a set amount of time? I'm using shorthand. xx.FE() for fallingEdge.

So are you using momentary toggle, standard toggles, or pushbuttons? Originally you said toggle, now you say pushbutton? Since you're turning the output on with a falling edge, I assuming the switches are between the input pin and ground. Examining, so you want the output on at press, then...

bump to the top.

I'll echo what Paul said. I have Arduino 0022 and 1.0 both loaded on mine, but only 1.0 has teensyduino. I have the latter set as the default opening program for sketches, as I only use 0022 for my older programs that I don't want to convert to fit 1.0's compiler.

I used a bluesmirf gold RPSMA in one of my projects....worked for a year...started randomly dropping the connection...now it powers up, but won't even pair. I've resorted to an analog readout, but one day I'd like to put BT back on it...but not if I'm only going to get a year of use out of it...

I've had no problems in Snow Leopard. But my work computer at my old job was Leopard, and I had alot of issues with software not running right on it, and it's already been dropped by a number of developers. But, like the lampshade macs, they'll use whatever they have until it falls over and...

Agreed Paul, please update. My natural inclination says that you should be fine, the T3 doesn't know where it's getting voltage from or how much current can be played with [to an extent]. So you should be fine at a full clock.

Like this? The 3 pin header represents the output of the TI photodiode as shown. (Second drawing is for a raw-part reference. The TI chip is a little more complicated than a simple photodiode) I don't have a way to measure how quick the camera's reaction time is, I figure I'll set the jig up...

I noticed that, but I dont know what to really compare it to. the 2" OD roll bar at 300MPH was 0.000378 of a second actuation time, 50us response time is 0.000050, a 7.5:1 ratio. Slow relative to the task, but I think it would work? I figure I can put a capacitor in the circuit to keep the USB...

This is the only 'red' photodiode that I see in stock- http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/OPT101PG4/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtWNtIk7yMEsUiFQt45oKERrPXUCpv3W%2fQ%3d Figure 5 of the datasheet shows how to use it in a 3 wire interface. But google doesn't return much for the part number...