How about a 3.5 inch 480x320 tochscreen display?

Paul, are any additional parts needed ? I'd like to order them now, so that they are here when i need them..

Yes, i order too much, too .. lol..

Have some SGTL5000... wanted to make a board for them... had not time to even begin...;-)

LOL, anybody needs 40+ USB-A connectors (female) ? :)
 
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DaQue said:
I have to stop buying All this project stuff but I too ordered a display and connector.
Click to expand...

Me too - I had one of these in a cart before I knew it. I paused and checked with Kurt about sharing a single order . . . since then if we both ordered we'd both need OSH boards too in another order ... plus board parts . . .

Frank B said:
Pauls, are any additional parts needed ? I'd like to order them now, so that they are here when i need them..

Yes, i order too much, too .. lol.. ...;-)
Click to expand...

Then we wondered what the BOM might include - if it would be easily to populate and solder the 'expected' parts?
 
defragster said:
Me too - I had one of these in a cart before I knew it. I paused and checked with Kurt about sharing a single order . . . since then if we both ordered we'd both need OSH boards too in another order ... plus board parts . . .



Then we wondered what the BOM might include - if it would be easily to populate and solder the 'expected' parts?
Click to expand...

I think the hardest part will the 50 pin connector. I't's 0.5 mm pitch and will take some care and for me magnfacation.
 
Do you think that i can use a hot-air station to solder them ? I've never soldered such a thing. Is it plastic that melts ?
ICs are very easy with hot air !
 
defragster said:
Me too - I had one of these in a cart before I knew it. I paused and checked with Kurt about sharing a single order . . . since then if we both ordered we'd both need OSH boards too in another order ... plus board parts . . .



Then we wondered what the BOM might include - if it would be easily to populate and solder the 'expected' parts?
Click to expand...

Frank B said:
Do you think that i can use a hot-air station to solder them ? I've never soldered such a thing. Is it plastic that melts ?
ICs are very easy with hot air !
Click to expand...

Hot will probably be the best way.. I haven't used it myself. It's on the buy someday list. Know of a good cheap solution? The plastic melting shouldn't be a problem if reasonable care is taken. They have to hold up to normal automated assembly and reflow.
 
DaQue, i use a station like this : https://www.amazon.de/s/ref=nb_sb_n...h-alias=industrial&field-keywords=Atten+858D+

They are sold with different brand-names and #numbers. (The name of mine is "Kaleep 858D")
It's not professional, but for hobby, it's good enough. I have it for a few weeks now, and I'm happy with it.
Sometimes, it blows too much air (light 0603-parts blow away sometimes) but with a bit practice, it's ok.
(Buy a set of good tweezers, too, if you don't have some)

My eyes were *much* better 10 years ago...
Now my arms are not long enough to read a newspaper without 3+ glasses..
 
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I use a similar technique for many SMD devices. If you get the whole thing melted at once the surface tension self aligns most parts quite well.
 
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Yes, that's the station.
I've seen it for less than 40 EUR. I think, they're all the same.. ok, mine has a black front.
 
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I probably need to dust off my Sparkfun hot air station and see if i have any luck with it. The couple of times I tried to remove a part from a board I melted the board.... But probably just novice user error.

And yes would be interesting to order a board to try out. Although sure would be easier if it already was soldered :lol:
 
Kurt: Maybe check the temp of the unit - maybe the sensor if off. Even if just a blob of solder turning up to melting?

Reading reviews on the Amazon $60 units - indeed seem to have a common Chinese maker just relabeled - they seem to have no certification nor warranty and some fail - perhaps immediately with poor assembly or bad components - so bears watching and being alert. So much SMD stuff will probably hope to get a working one soon.
 
PaulStoffregen said:
I'll share it just as soon as I can get the display to show anything. Remind me in a couple days if I forget (or if this gets set aide by other urgent stuff).

If you order one of these displays, select the option for capacitive touch. This board won't work with the resistive touch version.
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Did you ever get the Osh Park board to work?
 
Dear Paul. Another fantastic project. My preference would be for at least a minimally daylight readable display option even if that cost extra. I have several hand held meter projects using the touch sensitive TFT display and it is unreadable even in very bright room light. Hence my desire for a brighter display.
Good luck with this project.
 
Any suggested pin connections for the Buydisplay display with cap touch listed above?http://www.buydisplay.com/default/serial-spi-3-5-inch-tft-lcd-module-in-320x480-optl-touchscreen-ili9488 I may try laying out an Oshpark board myself. I think if I do it I may put in holes so the outside pins on a 3.6 at least will fit. Any suggestions on pins to use or keep open for other hardware are most welcome. I am assuming the prop and audio shield cs pins should be avoided.
 
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DaQue said:
Any suggested pin connections for the Buydisplay display with cap touch listed above?http://www.buydisplay.com/default/s...cd-module-in-320x480-optl-touchscreen-ili9488 I may try laying out an Oshpark board myself. I think if I do it I may put in holes so the outside pins on a 3.6 at least will fit. Any suggestions on pins to use or keep open for other hardware are most welcome. I am assuming the prop and audio shield cs pins should be avoided.
Click to expand...

Do you use Eagle ? If yes, it would be great if you share the *.sch and *.brd files.
 
I use Kicad but have a old free copy of eagle. I think its the last one before they got bought. I am no expert at doing PCBs. I will share whatever I come up with but while it will work it will be a hack.
 
@DaQue - with using a single side connect, a simple solution to avoid getting wrapped up in predicting which unused pins will be doing what is to just route them to a header - either straight to another single 0.1' row or use a double row IDC and put 3.3V and gnd on it. Main thing is to make the physical connection to the teensy solid, and give an option to get the unused pins back out without needing to get the wire wrap wire onto header pins or such.

Are you trying to get a port worth of pins in place for parallel control, or just serial?
 
I think Paul even said the parallel connection wouldn't be that much faster so I was just going to do a serial connection. I like the header idea but I may do like Paul did for the 5v in and put a trace you can cut between pads you can solder jumper easy for serial connections and break out the parallel port pins like you suggest. I can always do another board if I change my mind later. I think I may add 3.3v and 5v regulators. I have kind of gotten hooked on World of Warcraft again so I'm not sure how fast this will progress. Paul may beat me and I end up just going with his.
 
@Matadormac - You may want to Google for sunlight readable TFT LCD display and compare the ribbon cable connector pinouts. I believe I found a 7-inch display that is compatible with the RA8875 adaptor sold at AdaFruit. It has a 40 pin cable and the pin outs match. The display brightness is 630 to 800 nits. I have not checked a similar 5-inch display or other sizes, but feel they may exist too. The display I found is a NewHaven Display NHD-7.0-800480EF-ASXN#-CTP available on DigiKey. Sure it costs 2x more that the 7-inch 200 nit display on AdaFruit, but I'm interested in sunlight readable too. I intend to check this out (verify) in a month or so when I order my project parts. I will post back here with results. NewHaven Display also has SSD1963 based controller boards for a reasonable cost.
 
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