Perfboard for Teensy 3.6 and classic 3.2 shields

MichaelMeissner

Senior Member+
I've been wondering if somebody has designed a shim perfboard that would allow either Teensy 3.2 or 3.6 to be mounted to connect the DAT0, Vbat, Program pins in the 3.6 location to their 3.2 counter parts. Yeah, I can use wires to connect the missing pins, but it would be nicer if I'm using shields that can be removed using female stacking headers, if I could get say the prop shield or the feather adapter to plug in directly to the Teensy 3.6 and have the program/dat pins automatically connected.

From a breadboard point of view, if this shim perfboard had 12 pins (6 on each side) at the front of the Teensy that would allow the 4 inner pins on the left side (Vusb, AREF, A10, A11), the 4 pins from the prop shield (speaker +/-, and pins 11/13 level shifted to VIN), and the program/reset pins to be brought out, it would connecting either a Teensy 3.2 or 3.6 in a 30 row breadboard with all of the pins in breadboard fashion (other than the 2nd USB), and you could mix/match various shields, and still use a traditional breadboard or perfboard. It would be nice to bring out the USB as well, but then might be less useful if you need to go to a larger breadboard.
 
I've been wondering if somebody has designed a shim perfboard that would allow either Teensy 3.2 or 3.6 to be mounted to connect the DAT0, Vbat, Program pins in the 3.6 location to their 3.2 counter parts. Yeah, I can use wires to connect the missing pins, but it would be nicer if I'm using shields that can be removed using female stacking headers, if I could get say the prop shield or the feather adapter to plug in directly to the Teensy 3.6 and have the program/dat pins automatically connected.

From a breadboard point of view, if this shim perfboard had 12 pins (6 on each side) at the front of the Teensy that would allow the 4 inner pins on the left side (Vusb, AREF, A10, A11), the 4 pins from the prop shield (speaker +/-, and pins 11/13 level shifted to VIN), and the program/reset pins to be brought out, it would connecting either a Teensy 3.2 or 3.6 in a 30 row breadboard with all of the pins in breadboard fashion (other than the 2nd USB), and you could mix/match various shields, and still use a traditional breadboard or perfboard. It would be nice to bring out the USB as well, but then might be less useful if you need to go to a larger breadboard.

I have an idea: I can extend the Connectorboard a bit.. it would be more like a teensy 3.6<->3.2 adapter.. i post a pic this evening or tomorrow (have other things that want to be done at the moment :) )
 
Last edited:
I have an idea: I can extend the Connectorboard a bit.. it would be more like a teensy 3.6<->3.2 adapter.. i post a pic this evening or tomorrow (have other things that want to be done at the moment :) )

Cool. I look forward to seeing it if you have the time to do it.
 
Hm, my idea does not work .. .)
Here's a very simple approach:
If anybody wants to buy it it will be ~6.50 for a set of four (thats around ~1.60 per board. usually, i get five ) from PCBs.io

Just let me know and I upload it.

t3adapter.png

I can add a simple power-on LED (through-hole, because its easier...)..
 
Last edited:
It looks good.

I go back and forth whether bringing out VUSB, AREF, A10, and A11 would be a good idea. As I said, one of the problems with the prop shield is it doesn't have those broken out. In addition, if you cut the solder jumper between VIN and VUSB, it is really useful to have VIN and VUSB next to each other, so you can use a simple 2 pin jumper to reconnect them. On the other hand, adding 2 more rows of pins does mean more problems in fitting the board into crowded perfboards.

If you put either version up, I will order some. Thanks.
 
Hm, re: VSUB AREF, A10, and A11, they coud be placed as horizontal row between PIN 0 and VIN for 90-degree pin headers. I guess this does not hurt. And if yes, well, there's no must to solder them :)
 
Sounds reasonable, and it doesn't make the board bigger.

I'm not currently thinking about the secondary USB, but it may make sense to add another horizontal row to bring those pins out also.
 
That's a good idea.g
But i'll add it later, perhaps with a on-board USB jack connector - i want to check first which parts are good available (in Germany/Europe, too!) and not too expensive.

The board is here:
Edit:

https://pcbs.io/share/8gXO3

At the moment, untested (of course).

It looks like this:
t3adapter2.png


The price is $6.63 (incl. shipping) - for a set of four boards ($1.66 per board)
 
Last edited:
I hear you. For example I had a set of 4(or was it 5) made of my conversion board:
T3.6-T3.2Adapter.jpg

Which I had fabricated, which I have not tested yet either. The one difference was I tried to also map some of the additional IO pins for the T3.6, back into some of the internal pin locations for a T3.2, such that you could maybe use an older board with the T3.6. Again $6.70 for 4.

FYI - A friend up on Trossen Robotics recently built one of my old Teensy 3.2 board designs with a new T3.6. Which you can see in the image:
attachment.php
 
Is that a handle for a ZIF socket? Only on one side? Would be nice on the ultimate Proto/Flexiboard variant. So much stress yanking them out. Plus you could use them with the spindly pin stackable female headers and not have them get ruined pushing them in and have the headers handy for makeup wires.
 
A big "sorry" - i did not notice that there is a problem with the eagle-library i used.

DON'T USE A HEADER FOR THE FIRST PIN ("5V") of the USB-CONNECTOR on T3.6 on this board.
I fear, the result will be harmful if you do so.. (but I have no schematic and can not verify this)

The mentioned lib connects it to VUSB, the autorouter connected both, and i did not notice it..
 
Last edited:
I just received my order from pcbs.io. I did a double order by mistake, so I have 10 boards.

Given pcbs.io is in limbo for ordering new boards, there might be somebody who wants some of the boards right now. I don't need all 10 at the current time, so if somebody wants me to send them 5 boards via US mail, I can send them on for $6.50 (paypal). First person who contacts me, gets the boards. Note, this is via normal 1st class mail. If you want delivery confirmation or shipment outside of the US, I would need to figure out what the total mail charges would be.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top