pretty sure i let out the smoke

RNoble

Active member
so my ongoing months long TRON light cycle project was just about to debut today after getting the overt COB lighting all set up. last night i started connecting the WS2815 12V LED strips that i've buried in the under glow of my motorcycle after finally getting my programming solid and building a host circuit board.

but now, after making only one connection, i get nothing.


well... nothing except heat.
the board gains in temperature really quickly when plugged in.

now the questions are:
how fried is the board?
is it (user) repairable?
and...
should i put some diodes (i could use suggestions) on the data pins i'm using to keep this from happening again?

board is 4.1.
(thermal camera views are attached.)
 

Attachments

  • 1761432309578 - Copy.jpg
    1761432309578 - Copy.jpg
    25.1 KB · Views: 43
  • 1761432324946 - Copy.jpg
    1761432324946 - Copy.jpg
    33 KB · Views: 45
  • 1761432331808 - Copy.jpg
    1761432331808 - Copy.jpg
    31.5 KB · Views: 51
  • 1761432351637 - Copy.jpg
    1761432351637 - Copy.jpg
    27.5 KB · Views: 51
Last edited:
so...
this has happened a second time.

i have isolated it to a series of parallel strips and i'm wondering if a level shifter would prevent this?
 
Nobody is going to be able to say, without any information about how anything is being connected.
 
well...
i feel that if i'm making references to a 12V system and asking about level shifting that maybe some inferences could be made, but ok.

the 12V is direct to the strips and does not make contact with the Teensy.
the Teensy is being powered off USB 5V.
and the LEDs are raw dogging to pins 1, 8, 14, 17, 20, and 24, through terminal blocks on a prototyping board.

the first board was fried with the same WS2815 LED strips and i have Ohmed those out to be reasonably sure that there isn't a short. that said, it is possible that there is a problem there that i am not able to discover with just a meter.
 
Protecting against higher voltage usually involves a resistor and a diode. The diode limits voltage by directing current flow caused by the excess voltage. The resistor limits the amount of excess current the voltage can cause, which makes the diode's job possible.

Here's one way you might try.

1776114811195.png


In this scheme you would have 2 stages of protection. R2 and the zener diode are the first line of defense. For example, if you choose 470 ohms and 5.1V zener, you could expect about 7mA to flow through the resistor and into the diode which hopefully holds the voltage to around 5 volts.

If R1 is also 470 ohms, more current will flow through it and the tiny ESD protection diode inside the chip, to the 3.3V power line. Those diodes are very small and can only handle low current, maybe 10mA. As long as this current is less than the total power consumed from 3.3V, the effect will simply be the lessen the amount of power drawn from the 3.3V power supply. But careful attention to the worse case is needed, because if more current flows than the 3.3V power consumption, then it pulls up the voltage of the 3.3V power line, putting everything at risk. The diode will also have a forward drop around 0.6 to 0.7 volts, so the pin could be subjected to 3.9V to 4.0V. Not great, but likely to survive. Let's imagine the zener diode actually allows 5.5V (typically zeners aren't very accurate) and the pin ends up with 3.9V. That's 1.6V across 470 ohms, which is 3.4mA additional current which flows into the pin and through the ESD diode inside the chip.

Those ESD diodes come into play when the pin isn't configured or is acting as an input. When it's an output, 1 of the 2 transitors inside the chip connects the pin to either 3.3V or GND and effectively acts like a resistor in the 20-50 ohms range. More current can flow through R1, but the good news is those transitors are able to handle current better than the ESD diodes.

You can get better protection with higher value resistors that limit the current to lower levels, and with a better quality zener diode that clamps at a lower voltage so the 1st stage (with R2) does all the heavy lifting and 2nd stage (with R1) which depends on tiny ESD diodes and transistors inside the chip puts less stress on the chip.

Of course the downside to higher resistors is your signal output becomes "weaker" due to the higher impedance. The same effect of limiting the current that can flow in during accidental connection to 12V also limits the current that can flow in/out when you wish to drive a signal onto the LED strip's input. There's no perfect answer, only trade-offs.

While this sort of circuit does allow some stress on the chip during an accidental fault to 12 volts, if the parts are well chosen usually the chip will survive that stress.
 
well...
i feel that if i'm making references to a 12V system and asking about level shifting that maybe some inferences could be made, but ok.

the 12V is direct to the strips and does not make contact with the Teensy.
the Teensy is being powered off USB 5V.
and the LEDs are raw dogging to pins 1, 8, 14, 17, 20, and 24, through terminal blocks on a prototyping board.

the first board was fried with the same WS2815 LED strips and i have Ohmed those out to be reasonably sure that there isn't a short. that said, it is possible that there is a problem there that i am not able to discover with just a meter.
No mention of how you've connected VCC on the WS2815s. If I infer that you've connected it to the 3.3V output on the Teensy, that would explain why it looks like the voltage regulator has shorted in your thermal images.

I'd also question where is this "USB 5V" coming from? If this is all installed on a vehicle where are you getting 5V from?
 
Last edited:
Protecting against higher voltage usually involves a resistor and a diode. The diode limits voltage by directing current flow caused by the excess voltage. The resistor limits the amount of excess current the voltage can cause, which makes the diode's job possible.

Here's one way you might try.

View attachment 39167

In this scheme you would have 2 stages of protection. R2 and the zener diode are the first line of defense. For example, if you choose 470 ohms and 5.1V zener, you could expect about 7mA to flow through the resistor and into the diode which hopefully holds the voltage to around 5 volts.

If R1 is also 470 ohms, more current will flow through it and the tiny ESD protection diode inside the chip, to the 3.3V power line. Those diodes are very small and can only handle low current, maybe 10mA. As long as this current is less than the total power consumed from 3.3V, the effect will simply be the lessen the amount of power drawn from the 3.3V power supply. But careful attention to the worse case is needed, because if more current flows than the 3.3V power consumption, then it pulls up the voltage of the 3.3V power line, putting everything at risk. The diode will also have a forward drop around 0.6 to 0.7 volts, so the pin could be subjected to 3.9V to 4.0V. Not great, but likely to survive. Let's imagine the zener diode actually allows 5.5V (typically zeners aren't very accurate) and the pin ends up with 3.9V. That's 1.6V across 470 ohms, which is 3.4mA additional current which flows into the pin and through the ESD diode inside the chip.

Those ESD diodes come into play when the pin isn't configured or is acting as an input. When it's an output, 1 of the 2 transitors inside the chip connects the pin to either 3.3V or GND and effectively acts like a resistor in the 20-50 ohms range. More current can flow through R1, but the good news is those transitors are able to handle current better than the ESD diodes.

You can get better protection with higher value resistors that limit the current to lower levels, and with a better quality zener diode that clamps at a lower voltage so the 1st stage (with R2) does all the heavy lifting and 2nd stage (with R1) which depends on tiny ESD diodes and transistors inside the chip puts less stress on the chip.

Of course the downside to higher resistors is your signal output becomes "weaker" due to the higher impedance. The same effect of limiting the current that can flow in during accidental connection to 12V also limits the current that can flow in/out when you wish to drive a signal onto the LED strip's input. There's no perfect answer, only trade-offs.

While this sort of circuit does allow some stress on the chip during an accidental fault to 12 volts, if the parts are well chosen usually the chip will survive that stress.


are we talking this over a level shifter or in addition to a level shifter?

it's not clear if i am shorting 12V to the data line, but i have a lot of flickering and artifacts in my LEDs, so i am assuming that i need to have a level shifter, even though i have been trying to avoid the extra parts and real estate use.

this brings me more questions:
i had to look up what a zener diode is because i wasn't familar. since i'd like to block any return voltage, can i use a regular diode?
would i have a simpler circuit if i did that?
i'm more of a relays, buttons, and wiring type (electrical vs. electronics), how do i determine which diodes and resistors to use?

further...
i am familiar with loading up a parts cannon and firing for a fix; since i have thermal images and have identified the chip (GD E230F8 JJS515; the ARM microprocessor?) that is heating up, could i replace that chip and fix this pair of boards or is the whole board FUBAR?
and on that note, considering that i am experiencing an apparently terminal problem with the WS2815s (which have been installed for over a year at this point and not successfully powered up, would i be better off just tearing out the WS2815s, which are the problem, and replacing them with WS2811?

since i'm pretty sure that i've identified the microprocessor is the failure point, is it possible i'm forcing the processor into an overclock and that's what's burning it out?



I would also add fuses to your LED connections.

See also:


noted. i am currently adapting to space requirements, but the thought hasn't escaped me and i probably have room and a space on the bike to place a DIN rail fuse box in a place i recently discovered.

since the system is frying the Teensy instead of powering the lights, i believe i am experiencing a feedback problem in the data pins and i am prioritizing protecting the board in the future. the bike is an '82... it's kinda on fire all the time.





No mention of how you've connected VCC on the WS2815s. If I infer that you've connected it to the 3.3V output on the Teensy, that would explain why it looks like the voltage regulator has shorted in your thermal images.

I'd also question where is this "USB 5V" coming from? If this is all installed on a vehicle where are you getting 5V from?


i appreciate that you're attempting to help.
first thing to address here is that it seems you're talking at me like i might know what i'm doing wrong.

clearly, i don't know quite enough to keep from burning out two Teensy 4.1 boards with the same LEDs. the time frame between posts here is about six months, but the time between dead boards is supply chain, plus life, plus about twelve minutes of diagnostic time; the second board died in the same moment that it was plugged in to those LEDs for the first time after i did the most basic tests that i have tools to do.

i'm frustrated, so i will iterate what i have previously said.

i am powering the Teensy off of the onboard USB port with a USB cable with a USB 5V charge port on the 12V system of the motorcycle, which has been used to charge my phone, power a dashcam system, and a few other things i have used to confirm proper working operation. i don't know how i can explain that in any better method. the USB cable is only powering the board.

the LEDs are directly powered from the 12V system of the bike. i do know enough about things to understand that trying to power a 12V system from a 3.3V power supply will result in a nothing burger.

so let's redirect...
i am trying to figure out why my test bench system (which worked perfectly) and my installed system (which fails by becoming a high output handwarmer) are acting differently; while the bench system works fine, the installed system is torching the Teensy board with prejudice when i try to operate the WS2815 LEDs in the system.

the only connection to the board and the LEDs are through the data pins. they are power supply isolated.
 
Last edited:
I'm going to add some commentary and thoughts.

well...
i feel that if i'm making references to a 12V system and asking about level shifting that maybe some inferences could be made, but ok.

I think this is precisely one of the issues that comes up very often when trying to diagnose a problem: that inferences have to be made. The goal, I think, for anyone requesting help is to make it so almost no inferences need to be made. I mean, where that boundary is could be a sliver of a grey area (for example, you don't need to state that connecting wires need to be conductive, but you should state your voltage, and what's connected to what, etc.), but it's very often the assumptions, implicit or explicit, that are the source of difficulties when helping to diagnose.

One of the biggest challenges, I find, when there's any difficulties or frustrations, or even misdirected anger, in most conversations, is identifying these assumptions, especially the implicit ones, or even identifying that there are any implicit assumptions.

are we talking this over a level shifter or in addition to a level shifter?

it's not clear if i am shorting 12V to the data line, but i have a lot of flickering and artifacts in my LEDs, so i am assuming that i need to have a level shifter, even though i have been trying to avoid the extra parts and real estate use.

Flicker on LED strips, in my experience, is most often power-related, sometimes related to grounding, and sometimes it's just a bad power supply. In fact, just this past weekend, after swapping two "it couldn't possibly be the power supplies" power supply inputs, it was identified that one of the supplies had to be replaced.

Also, the power-grounds must match the data-input-grounds.

this brings me more questions:
i had to look up what a zener diode is because i wasn't familar. since i'd like to block any return voltage, can i use a regular diode?
would i have a simpler circuit if i did that?
i'm more of a relays, buttons, and wiring type (electrical vs. electronics), how do i determine which diodes and resistors to use?

It is my experience that sometimes people can get frustrated when something "they already know" is explained back to them in an effort to help. That's another thing I encounter quite frequently, that someone might even get insulted because they assume that the helper "should know that they don't need to explain something because I already know it!" Looking a little more deeply at that, how is the helper supposed to assume what the other person knows? Back to assumptions.

So... when I help someone, if there's even a hint that they might know something, my strategy is to append a parenthetical that "you may already know this, but I'm explaining 'just in case' and 'for future readers'," or some such — just in case I'm "supposed to have known" I didn't need to explain the thing to them.

It all goes back to assumptions: Which ones are safe to make (almost none in many cases), which ones might trigger somebody, and which ones don't need to be made (eg. wires are conductive).

further...
i am familiar with loading up a parts cannon and firing for a fix; since i have thermal images and have identified the chip (GD E230F8 JJS515; the ARM microprocessor?) that is heating up, could i replace that chip and fix this pair of boards or is the whole board FUBAR?
and on that note, considering that i am experiencing an apparently terminal problem with the WS2815s (which have been installed for over a year at this point and not successfully powered up, would i be better off just tearing out the WS2815s, which are the problem, and replacing them with WS2811?

since i'm pretty sure that i've identified the microprocessor is the failure point, is it possible i'm forcing the processor into an overclock and that's what's burning it out?

Are you specifying the build to use an overclocked speed?

I don't think replacing the processor will work because the bootloader chip is paired to a specific processor, once that pairing process is done once.

noted. i am currently adapting to space requirements, but the thought hasn't escaped me and i probably have room and a space on the bike to place a DIN rail fuse box in a place i recently discovered.

since the system is frying the Teensy instead of powering the lights, i believe i am experiencing a feedback problem in the data pins and i am prioritizing protecting the board in the future. the bike is an '82... it's kinda on fire all the time.

One thing that could, in theory, happen is a data line that's shorted to the power or something. To me, that would fall into the "I didn't even think of that" category, similar to my "it couldn't possibly be the power supplies" assumption above I didn't realize I was even making.

i appreciate that you're attempting to help.
first thing to address here is that it seems you're talking at me like i might know what i'm doing wrong.

clearly, i don't know quite enough to keep from burning out two Teensy 4.1 boards with the same LEDs. the time frame between posts here is about six months, but the time between dead boards is supply chain, plus life, plus about twelve minutes of diagnostic time; the second board died in the same moment that it was plugged in to those LEDs for the first time after i did the most basic tests that i have tools to do.

i'm frustrated, so i will iterate what i have previously said.

I appreciate that you're identifying your frustration and feelings here, and that you're acknowledging the help. It can be so frustrating when a project just isn't working, and sometimes that can bleed out into interactions that others pick up on. That can even spiral.

@jmarsh is quite technically competent and capable, and probably one of the top contributors and insightful helpers on this forum. When replying to what sounds like a very frustrated person asking for help, it's easy to bristle and respond back in a mirror-like fashion, or it could be perceived as such, even when no intent is there. Crafting a perfect response is difficult, especially when feelings get involved.

The bottom line is that questions you're asked here are very likely relevant to helping solve the problem, especially when someone like @jmarsh is asking them. This is a very good and very technically capable forum, and people here will get just as frustrated as you (alongside you, that is) when something isn't working right. Heck, @PaulStoffregen will even buy components and try to reproduce an issue if he thinks there's a true problem, and then fix it. Not many designers or manufacturers will do that. Also keep in mind that everyone here will try their very best to try to help, and especially that everyone who gets involved in a discussion here really does want to solve this with you.

i am powering the Teensy off of the onboard USB port with a USB cable with a USB 5V charge port on the 12V system of the motorcycle, which has been used to charge my phone, power a dashcam system, and a few other things i have used to confirm proper working operation. i don't know how i can explain that in any better method. the USB cable is only powering the board.

the LEDs are directly powered from the 12V system of the bike. i do know enough about things to understand that trying to power a 12V system from a 3.3V power supply will result in a nothing burger.

so let's redirect...
i am trying to figure out why my test bench system (which worked perfectly) and my installed system (which fails by becoming a high output handwarmer) are acting differently; while the bench system works fine, the installed system is torching the Teensy board with prejudice when i try to operate the WS2815 LEDs in the system.

the only connection to the board and the LEDs are through the data pins. they are power supply isolated.

Not saying this is your problem, but check out that Hackaday article and video on how power can be "un-isolated". (Hence the fuses.) It might add some more thoughts you may not have considered.

Thanks for reading all this. I'd love to see pictures and video of your completed project. I'm curious, can you tell me more about your pattern generation software and algorithms? I like to connect on this subject with others who do this sort of thing. LED controls and patterns is one of my main hobbies.
 
@shawn, my biggest frustration is that i started this thread in October of 2025, with the same information, and had to state that another board blew to get any response. trying to work out this problem on my own is what kept me from working to finish this project for the past few months.

i would have much preferred to break it only once.
it gets expensive.
strike that... it started expensive and got more expensive.


fusing and isolating are two different subjects to me.

fusing is purposely putting a weak link into the system so that failure is traceable.
isolating is purposely removing a link from a system to keep a failure from cascading.

yes, i agree that putting fuses on the LED strips is a good idea. yes, i will look into that. no, i don't think a fuse would have saved the board, unless i use a fuse between the data pins, which i suppose would be an option if i can find the right ones to fit in the space.

adding anything to my carrier board likely means using a different board. that doesn't hurt me as much as it takes time.



if i'm taking that time, i might as well remove the one thing that appears to be causing a problem and start over with my underglow, since that set of circuits has failed to ever light up.

well... with the exception of one 54 pixel strip that i used last week to do a quick check...
those circuits have been in place for so long, that i'm not even sure they're undamaged. i have forgotten everything i did with them and had set them up in a method that i decided not to use.

actually...
now that i think about it, i still have the tail end of two circuits connected together... power and data out are linked at the end of my rear fender and were left that way. although i don't see how that would create a feedback issue since the data flows only one direction and the power would only allow more amperage from the parallel connection.


as for sharing code, at some point i'll limit exposure. i'm intending to create a markable solution to all the lame glow systems available on the market. one of the reasons i selected Teensy was the encryption option and compatibility with the CANBUS system.

but i could probably achieve some of that with an ESP32.
 
Oh, I wasn't asking you to share code. :) I guess I'm just curious if you're doing all your own patterns, and what kind of mathematics you're using. For example, do you use regular/periodic patterns or add some noise? Do you use 2-D or 3-D mathematics? Etc. Totally respect the trade-secret nature of what you're doing.
 
to get this thread back on track...

@PaulStoffregen are you able to address these questions?
are we talking this over a level shifter or in addition to a level shifter?

it's not clear if i am shorting 12V to the data line, but i have a lot of flickering and artifacts in my LEDs, so i am assuming that i need to have a level shifter, even though i have been trying to avoid the extra parts and real estate use.

this brings me more questions:
i had to look up what a zener diode is because i wasn't familar. since i'd like to block any return voltage, can i use a regular diode?
would i have a simpler circuit if i did that?
i'm more of a relays, buttons, and wiring type (electrical vs. electronics), how do i determine which diodes and resistors to use?

further...
i am familiar with loading up a parts cannon and firing for a fix; since i have thermal images and have identified the chip (GD E230F8 JJS515; the ARM microprocessor?) that is heating up, could i replace that chip and fix this pair of boards or is the whole board FUBAR?
and on that note, considering that i am experiencing an apparently terminal problem with the WS2815s (which have been installed for over a year at this point and not successfully powered up, would i be better off just tearing out the WS2815s, which are the problem, and replacing them with WS2811?

since i'm pretty sure that i've identified the microprocessor is the failure point, is it possible i'm forcing the processor into an overclock and that's what's burning it out?
 
are you able to address these questions?

I'll answer about the protection circuitry. But please understand my reluctance to give answers that speculate about what actually went wrong with a system I haven't used and can't even really see.

On the diode for the circuit in msg #5, you must use a zener diode. A regular diode will not give any useful protection.

To explain why, and hopefully give useful understanding of how this circuit protects, consider a normal diode from a basic point of view allows electric current to flow one way but not the other. That direction is from anode to cathode, which is the direction the triangle points when drawn on a schematic. If you were to use a normal diode, nothing would ever flow through it (unless you somehow drive the signal with a negative voltage). Certainly nothing useful would happen with the diode if the signal accidentally touches +12V power.

Again, I'm not saying I know accidentally touching the signal to +12V is what killed your Teensy. This circuit is about protecting against that specific possible problem, without clear confirmation of what problem actually occurred.

So back to normal diodes. Simple mental model is they conduct in one direction but not the other. But they're not so simple in many ways. In particular, they have a maximum voltage they can block when not conducting but there is some voltage applied (more positive on the cathode side). At some high voltage, the diode will fail to prevent the current from flowing in reverse direction (which is also true for virually any material at high enough voltages). With normal diodes the manufacturer gives a maximum spec, and they try to make the actual performance exceed that maximum by as much as they reasonably can (without impacting the many other subtle diode behaviors we're ignoring here... and of course the cost). Right now, the maximum reverse voltage is the important thing to understand, beyond the simple mental model of "conducts one way but not the other".

Zener diodes as specially made to conduct in reverse as a specific voltage. The manufacturer does something special with the silicon, which might as well be magic, which aims for the opposite of trying to make that allowed reverse voltage as much as possible. They fabricate the diode so it will start reverse conducting at a specific reverse voltage.

The zener diode behavior is exactly what you want to help protect the pin. When the voltage is normal, you want the diode to do nothing. But when it's too high, you want it to conduct as well as possible. Together with the resistor, this can limit the voltage Teensy gets imposed on its pin.

So ideally you would want perfectly accurate zener diode rated for 3.301 volts, which has absolutely no conduction to interfere with your signal, but starts diverting incoming current from the resistor when the voltage gets even ever so slightly higher than normal 3.3V. Sadly, zener diodes aren't highly precise. Even worse, they don't "stop on a dime". A zener diode rated for 3.3 volts probably starts to conduct around 3.0 volts or lower, and probably isn't really able to conduct much current until 3.8 or maybe even 4 volts or higher. If you want to deep dive on tech, this gradual transition from not conducting in reverse at all to actually conducting pretty well is called "Zener Knee". It gets complicated quickly. It's also temperature sensitive. The bottom line is zener diodes are simply not highly things.

If you read manufacturer datasheets, remember they are first and foremost a sale pitch. Their 1 and only goal is the sell you the product. They'll give you detailed charts that show how the part performs, but the first page will be filled with marketing tell you how great the product is. Don't let them fool you. Zener diodes are just a piece of silicon with special stuff implanted on the 2 sides. Resist the tempation to think of them in magical terms. They're really pretty imprecise, even if the manufacture gives an accuracy rating (with plent of fine print).

So this all comes down to having to choose a zener diode with voltage rating higher than you wanted. I mentioned 5.1 volts. You might try 3.9 volts or maybe even 3.6 volts. Likewise for the resistors, I tried to explain the trade-off. Higher resistance gives more protection, but gives you a "weak" signal output.

There are 4 ways people tend to choose the specific parts.
  • Copy someone else's circuit
  • Just guess (usually conservatively) and hope for the best, maybe do a final test to confirm
  • Prototype and carefully test, usually with a solderless breadboard or other quick connect way
  • Computer simulation - basically the same as prototyping and testing, but all software models
There were several questions, but hopefully this at least answers the question about which type of diode to use.
 
So back to normal diodes. Simple mental model is they conduct in one direction but not the other. But they're not so simple in many ways. In particular, they have a maximum voltage they can block when not conducting but there is some voltage applied (more positive on the cathode side). At some high voltage, the diode will fail to prevent the current from flowing in reverse direction. With normal diodes the manufacturer gives a maximum spec, and they try to make the actual performance exceed that maximum by as much as they reasonably can (without impacting the many other subtle diode behaviors we're ignoring here... and of course the cost). Right now, the maximum reverse voltage is the important thing to understand, beyond the simple mental model of "conducts one way but not the other".

Zener diodes as specially made to conduct in reverse as a specific voltage. The manufacturer does something special with the silicon, which might as well be magic, which aims for the opposite of trying to make that allowed reverse voltage as much as possible. They fabricate the diode so it will start conducting at a specific reverse voltage.

The zener diode behavior is exactly what you want to help protect the pin. When the voltage is normal, you want the diode to do nothing. But when it's too high, you want it to conduct as well as possible. Together with the resistor, this can limit the voltage Teensy gets imposed on its pin.

So ideally you would want perfectly accurate zener diode rated for 3.301 volts, which has absolutely no conduction to interfere with your signal, but starts diverting incoming current from the resistor when the voltage gets even ever so slightly higher than normal 3.3V. Sadly, zener diodes aren't highly precise. Even worse, they don't "stop on a dime". A zener diode rated for 3.3 volts probably starts to conduct around 3.0 volts or lower, and probably isn't really able to conduct much current until 3.8 or maybe even 4 volts or higher. If you want to deep dive on tech, this gradual transition from not conducting in reverse at all to actually conducting pretty well is called "Zener Knee". It gets complicated quickly. It's also temperature sensitive. The bottom line is zener diodes are simply not highly things.



so instead of setting up a one way gate with a regular diode, i'd be using one with a squeeze chute going the other way.

alright.

so what about the level shifter; is this better than or something that should be used with a level shifter?
i have a lot of flickering and odd colors happening and it seems that should be the fix for that.
 
Note that a zener diode won't prevent damage if the Teensy is unpowered when the LEDs are powered - then the protection diodes do all the work. Its best to use Schottky diodes to back a CMOS chip's internal protection diodes, as Schottky diodes will conduct _before_ the internal ones. You can get multiple Schottky protection diodes in a single small SMT package these days, some also have a zener as well.
 
Note that a zener diode won't prevent damage if the Teensy is unpowered when the LEDs are powered - then the protection diodes do all the work. Its best to use Schottky diodes to back a CMOS chip's internal protection diodes, as Schottky diodes will conduct _before_ the internal ones. You can get multiple Schottky protection diodes in a single small SMT package these days, some also have a zener as well.

it's interesting that you brought this up.

i was discussing this with Google's AI because i was looking for ways to isolate and diagnose what happened to the LEDs. the AI found the thread that suggested using Schottky diodes and i asked it if using both was something that would be legitimate. it suggested that, using both types of diode, that i put a zener diode to the ground and a Schottky diode to the 3.3V rail using your schematic drawing.

however, it was also decided that the problem is probably the 54 pixel under tank strips which sit upside down on the frame above a 320°F air cooled engine that became restricted by fairing legs when i added them as part of this project.

i have an Uno that i will use as a test unit to find the bad strips.
 
Perhaps opto-isolators would be a better option. Not sure if their speed is fast enough to run LEDs but at least they provide constant isolation.
 
It Teensy is unpowered, the first of the 2-stage approach (msg #5) still works to limit the amount of work the other stage has to do. The first stage with zener diode doesn't depend on any power.

The second stage does use diodes to divert current into the power supply. Indeed using schottky diodes will help make it much stronger than relying only on the tiny internal diodes. It also turns the circuit from 3 parts to 5 parts. Only real testing can give a good idea of whether the extra 2 diodes give a meaningful improvement.

In the case where Teensy is unpowered, current through the 2nd resistor and diode to 3.3V will attempt to partially power up Teensy. That's undesirable because Teensy probably would not successfully start up if power is turned on during this condition. But that result is not nearly as bad as the hardware permanently damaged. However, if Teensy doesn't start up because the circuit is protecting it, you might have no way to know a fault condition keeping it from starting. It might appear to be destroyed, even though if the hardware actually survived and would work again if the fault condition is fixed.

However, the unpowered case is also complicated because diverting current that comes in from the 2nd stage depends on that incoming current being less than the total power consumed from the 3.3V power line. During steady running, Teensy usually consumes about 100mA, so a few mA incoming isn't a big deal. But during startup, current varies quite a lot. Teensy 4 has a complicate power up sequence, which is explained on the T4 bootloader chip page. If the total power usage during any part is less than the incoming fault current, that current can raise the 3.3V power line. Fortunately it has to charge the capacitors connected to the 3.3V power line, so this isn't an instantaneous process. But it still should be carefully tested (as mentioned in msg #14 - ways people design this sort of circuitry).
 
It Teensy is unpowered, the first of the 2-stage approach (msg #5) still works to limit the amount of work the other stage has to do. The first stage with zener diode doesn't depend on any power.

The second stage does use diodes to divert current into the power supply. Indeed using schottky diodes will help make it much stronger than relying only on the tiny internal diodes. It also turns the circuit from 3 parts to 5 parts. Only real testing can give a good idea of whether the extra 2 diodes give a meaningful improvement.

In the case where Teensy is unpowered, current through the 2nd resistor and diode to 3.3V will attempt to partially power up Teensy. That's undesirable because Teensy probably would not successfully start up if power is turned on during this condition. But that result is not nearly as bad as the hardware permanently damaged. However, if Teensy doesn't start up because the circuit is protecting it, you might have no way to know a fault condition keeping it from starting. It might appear to be destroyed, even though if the hardware actually survived and would work again if the fault condition is fixed.

However, the unpowered case is also complicated because diverting current that comes in from the 2nd stage depends on that incoming current being less than the total power consumed from the 3.3V power line. During steady running, Teensy usually consumes about 100mA, so a few mA incoming isn't a big deal. But during startup, current varies quite a lot. Teensy 4 has a complicate power up sequence, which is explained on the T4 bootloader chip page. If the total power usage during any part is less than the incoming fault current, that current can raise the 3.3V power line. Fortunately it has to charge the capacitors connected to the 3.3V power line, so this isn't an instantaneous process. But it still should be carefully tested (as mentioned in msg #14 - ways people design this sort of circuitry).


i'm still wondering if the Shottky 3.3V is necessary given my goal is to isolate the data line and suppress any stray power returning. it sounds like sending a fault to the 3.3V pin is just doing the opposite of what i'm trying to do.


there is a huge lag in the supply chain; i'm limited to on hand resources and i don't know how long it will take to get the new Teensy here (Sparkfun is backordered).
the more i can do before hand, the less likely i have another dead controller.



Perhaps opto-isolators would be a better option. Not sure if their speed is fast enough to run LEDs but at least they provide constant isolation.


how would that effect the data stability?
if i'm doing that, why not use an isolation transformer? (still use these for removing noise in audio systems.)
 
@RNoble do you feel like drawing a schematic of how everything is currently connected? I'd love to see it and it would help my mental model, and I'm sure that would also assist diagnostics here.
 
Because you're dealing with DC signals, not AC.
May I offer a slightly more general statement: transformers won't pass the DC component of a signal. (For readers that respond with the fact that the bit rate of the data signal is 800kHz.) There's likely a DC component of about 2.5V, because most LEDs that I've seen use a 5V single-ended data signal.
 
Most optocouplers are too slow for WS2812 / WS2815 data. If you're going to go that route, you probably want a higher speed RF-based isolator, like ISO6420 or CMT8020N0 or similar. These isolators can also serve to convert logic levels.

But the (presumed) problem remains that accidentally touching 12V power to the signal will destroy the isolator rather than Teensy. If that's an acceptable result, then go for it. If not, you still need some sort of protection so you don't destroy the isolator's output side.

If the isolator is used properly, truly isolated power on both sides, it should be very effective at preventing problems with 12V (or even significantly higher) from reaching Teensy.
 
@RNoble do you feel like drawing a schematic of how everything is currently connected? I'd love to see it and it would help my mental model, and I'm sure that would also assist diagnostics here.

i'm working on doing a schematic. i haven't done one because things were relatively simple, but that ship clearly sailed.


i've discovered a new thing, so what about a TVS diode?
probably not... sounds like something meant for static.



Because you're dealing with DC signals, not AC.

May I offer a slightly more general statement: transformers won't pass the DC component of a signal. (For readers that respond with the fact that the bit rate of the data signal is 800kHz.) There's likely a DC component of about 2.5V, because most LEDs that I've seen use a 5V single-ended data signal.


never used them on AC because audio system outputs are DC.
car audio is all DC.

we generally use them on line out signal lines to get rid of a hum. the guitar people used to call them a humbucker. i tended to use them in this configuration to get rid of alternator whine in the speakers when in stalling in old cars and tractors.

HAM and CB guys used to love them; that's how i found out about them way back in the day.

i'm good with building electrical, but new to building electronics. (never did get that HAM license.)

an isolation transformer is a 1:1 induction transfer; if there's any significant amplification or loss, it's no longer 1:1.

so...
i'm not saying that i'm actually considering this; they're huge. but knowing that DC isolation transformers do exist, how would those work in this capacity?
 
Back
Top