The diodes on VBAT allow the 3.3 volt power to automatically power the VBAT pin, but the battery provides power as soon as the normal voltage drops lower than the battery voltage (presumably a 3.0 volt coin cell). When the coin cell is powering the real time clock (VBAT pin), current can't flow back into the main 3.3 volts because of the other diode. Likewise, the 3.3 volts can't attempt to charge the coin cell when the battery's voltage is less than 3.3 volts.
Yes, the diodes do protect against reverse polarity. It's safe to connect a battery that may be installed backwards to VIN or VBAT.
But it is not safe to allow reverse polarity when connecting directly to 3.3 volts. If you try to power the whole board that way, for example using a pair of AA or AAA batteries between 3.3V and ground, you must use battery holders that mechanically prevent reverse polarity connection. Here's one:
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=BHAA-POL-ND