Touch sensor for Teensy 3.0

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MichaelMeissner

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What kind of material can be used with the touch sensor in the Teensy 3.0? I've seen some articles that describe using a processor without touch support built in, and an article here where Plocploc wanted to use a Sparkfun touch sensor, and Paul basically said it was made for normal analog read.

As some of you know, I like to make steampunk cameras. So far, the only use I've made of microprocessors, is to use a telegraph key to fire my large camera (that an earlier version is in my icon photo), and play 'Fire' on the buzzer in Morse code, but I'm starting to think more ambitiously.

My latest steampunk camera is embedding my Olympus TG-2 inside of a wooden box that looks like a suitcase that I got from a hobby store:
2013-08-24-13-45-038-hidetravel.jpg
2013-08-22-08-09-036-hidetravel.jpg

After seeings the discussion about NeoPixels, and that basic Teensy support is now encoded in the library, I just bought two Adafruit neopixel rings (http://www.adafruit.com/products/1463). Originally, I was just going to put them in goggles or some such, but when I looked at the size, it occured to me, I could mount one of them on the 40.5-49mm step-up ring that is part of my travel steampunk camera. What I would like to do is have the touch sensor hooked up to the brass 3/4" screw I have positioned over the shutter button as a mechanical button (this camera does not take shutter release cables, so I need to fire it mechanically), and when I touch the screw in preparation to fire the camera, either turn off the lights or turn them all onto white. When I release my finger, the Teensy would go back to doing whatever default pattern I set for the lights.

Now, I could use something like a force sensor, between the screw and the shutter button, but I think it might be cooler to have the sensor in the screw. If brass isn't conductive enough, I could change the screw to regular steel or something else. So, would the touch sensor in the Teensy be able to deal with a brass screw? If not, what kinds of things is the touch sensor designed for? I also would like to modify my telegraph key so that it begins focusing when I put my finger on the key (right now, it focuses when I have the key engaged, and when I release the telegraph key, it fires the camera).
:cool:
 
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Anything metal, or almost anything conductive can work as a touch sensor.

With a direct connection to the Teensy pin, any static shock delivered to the electrode will stress the pin inside the chip. The best solution is to put a thin non-conductive material over the metal. But if you can't do that, a 1K or high resistor between the pin and metal surface is a lot better than no protection at all.
 
Thanks. I can probably coat it in clear plastic. Or given it is just a standard acorn nut on top of the 1/4-20" screw, I can get a plastic acorn nut, and maybe hunt up some bronze spray paint. I'll probably put the resistor in as well.
 
Hmmm, I wonder if not having earth ground is going to be a problem, as the Teensy will be entirely battery operated, and if putting a wire that is connected to the Teensy's ground, that is either attached to me, or is a second plate that I touch when I want to enable the effect (so there is a ground connection between my finger and the Teensy).
 
Yup, usually you need the user to be touching ground (while holding the device) or have the device earth grounded and rely on the weak coupling of their body to the earth and nearby grounded metal objects.
 
I would think that a touch sensor that's not a screen-based capacitive/resistive "circuit" - has the person be an antenna to induce the mains frequency, like 60Hz in the US.
Detect that frequency or a harmonic, or some such, rather than a binary/DC value.
Maybe I'm off-base.. but the "touch-on" desk lamps and such come to mind.
 
I would think that a touch sensor that's not a screen-based capacitive/resistive "circuit" - has the person be an antenna to induce the mains frequency, like 60Hz in the US.
Detect that frequency or a harmonic, or some such, rather than a binary/DC value.
Maybe I'm off-base.. but the "touch-on" desk lamps and such come to mind.

Just to be clear, this is a hand held camera. Since the teensy will be battery powered and is not connected at all to earth ground, I'm not sure the mains frequency will enter into it. Having a ground wire from the Teensy connecting to me should not be a problem.

The screw is used as lever to push the shutter button mechanically (there is a spring on the inside to keep the screw from touching the shutter button, except when I push it down). I chose brass screws because in steampunk, brass and leather tend to be design aestethics. What I'm looking for is an on/off toggle. that when I am about to press the shutter button, that it signals the Teensy to stop an effect it is running. Now, for my bigger cameras that take wired shutter releases, I can have the teensy just stop the effect when I trigger the camera. In this case, I don't care about the fine graduations of how far my finger is from the screw, I'll just calibrate it so that when my finger is close enough or touching the screw to consider it being toggled on.

There are other ways I could do the toggle (secondary button, metal strip on top of the shutter button to complete a circuit or force sensor on the button), but I figured with the metal screw, it may work.

I have on order an Adafruit Neopixel ring that is big enough to put around the lens, and I thought it might be cool to have the lights going in a circle when I'm not shooting, but when I'm about to shoot, either turn off the lights altogether, or turn on the white lights to add as a LED to help with the light in dark rooms. I suspect it may be too gaudy, and I may scrap the idea, using the neopixels for something else, but we'll see.
 
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Well, it looks like it works. If I'm touching the screw connected to A1 and a ground wire, readings are in the 2000-4000 range, while if I'm not touching the sensor, it is in the 600-1000 range. Cool. Thanks Paul for adding the touch capability.

I did discover I don't seem to have the Linux serial monitor support enabled. I thought I had done that age ago. Fortunately, I could use my bluetooth monitor for Serial3 prints.
 
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