Hey! Thank you so much for your [extremely] rapid reply. I'm reeealllly glad you proofed my work..... sheesh. I'm totally new to electronics... can you tell?
I'd recommend testing just one of those RGB LEDs. The resistor values seem to be computed for fairly high current. The recommended maximum current for a Teensy 3.1 pin is 9 mA. The "absolute" maximum is 20 mA.
Yes, I calculated the resistor values based on 20-25mA. I tried to measure the current [literally the first time I've used that feature of my multimeter....] and on the 200mA setting it read either '.3' or '.6'. I figured that either meant '.3/.6mA' or '30/60% of 200mA'. Apparently I picked the wrong one.
If I recalculate for 1mA:
R: 1150 (1200) ohm
G: 300 (330) ohm
B: 1400 (1500) ohm
5mA:
R: 230 (270) ohm
G: 60 (68) ohm
B: 280 (330) ohm
I tested both and will probably go with the latter, if that won't burn them out too fast.
I don't quite understand what's meant by "latching" switches.
Poor use of terminology on my part... I just meant toggle/rocker switches, as opposed to momentary push buttons.
The 74HC4051 seems to have 8 switches connected with resistors in series. The switches connect to +3.3V. Maybe those resistors where means to be pulldowns to ground, rather than in series?
Yes, that makes more sense. I misunderstood the page I was reading that described using that chip. On that same note, I should probably add pulldown resistors to all of the digital inputs so they aren't 'floating', right?
Pins 7 and 8 on the 74HC4051 appear to be unconnected. Obviously those need to connect to ground for the chip to work.
Ahhh- yeah, when I traced the schematic in pen so it would scan better, I forgot to trace over the pencil line that had pin 8 attached to ground. I did not have pin 7 connected, though. This morning I've done a little bit of reading on 'Vee' but I don't think I understand the why of it; I'll keep working on that!
It's also good practice to place a small ceramic capacitor between 3.3V and ground, located close to each chip. Typically 0.1 uF is used, but the actual value is less important that using a ceramic type with good high frequency performance and locating it close to the chip, so the wires do not add much inductance that limits the frequency response. If the chip needs current at high frequency (for example, when the digital signals change), short connections to a local capacitor helps a lot.
Would this be an appropriate ceramic capacitor?
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=399-4266-ND
You probably don't need a fan.
I'm sure you're right on this; I've already prepared the case to accommodate a tiny one so I'll probably keep it in anyways, but add an on/off switch so it isn't running by default.