What is the prefered method to attach leads to use the Rest and Pins 28 - A13
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MichaelMeissner
Senior Member+
Sure it is surface mount technology. You do have to be careful to not provide too much stress, as you can pull off the pad.
You could just solder wires to the pads.
This pcb allows you to solder a surface mount header and a pogo pin to your teensy, and then use the bigger board on a breadboard or soldered to a perfboard: https://www.tindie.com/products/loglow/teensy-31-breakout/?pt=full_prod_search. If you are unsure of your soldering skills, and need the pins attached badly, you can order a Teensy that is pre-soldered for about $60.
This is an easier way to solder pins to the underside of the board than using a SMT header: https://forum.pjrc.com/threads/26071-Using-all-Teensy3-x-pins-with-a-socket
This is another board that provides an Arduino style shield mounting as well as additional pins from underneath. Like the first item, you can order a Teensy pre-soldered. I don't think this board has provision for the reset pin (in Teensy 3.0, the reset pin was on the back, in 3.1 it was in one location underneath the pcb, and in 3.2, the reset pin moved): https://www.tindie.com/products/freto/teensy-3-breakout-board-and-shield/?pt=full_prod_search
This is a 3rd board for accessing the underneath pins. You can order 3 of these boards from OSH Park for about $8.30. Unlike the previous two boards, you don't have to solder a SMT header to the underneath pins. Instead it is meant to be installed directly under the Teensy, and you connect the underneath pads with a bit of solder.
Note, I haven't yet done any of these. I was going to do the last one, but my soldering iron looks like it is giving up the ghost, and I may need to replace it. I have the other two boards, but so far I haven't attempted soldering the SMT headers.
You could just solder wires to the pads.
This pcb allows you to solder a surface mount header and a pogo pin to your teensy, and then use the bigger board on a breadboard or soldered to a perfboard: https://www.tindie.com/products/loglow/teensy-31-breakout/?pt=full_prod_search. If you are unsure of your soldering skills, and need the pins attached badly, you can order a Teensy that is pre-soldered for about $60.
This is an easier way to solder pins to the underside of the board than using a SMT header: https://forum.pjrc.com/threads/26071-Using-all-Teensy3-x-pins-with-a-socket
This is another board that provides an Arduino style shield mounting as well as additional pins from underneath. Like the first item, you can order a Teensy pre-soldered. I don't think this board has provision for the reset pin (in Teensy 3.0, the reset pin was on the back, in 3.1 it was in one location underneath the pcb, and in 3.2, the reset pin moved): https://www.tindie.com/products/freto/teensy-3-breakout-board-and-shield/?pt=full_prod_search
This is a 3rd board for accessing the underneath pins. You can order 3 of these boards from OSH Park for about $8.30. Unlike the previous two boards, you don't have to solder a SMT header to the underneath pins. Instead it is meant to be installed directly under the Teensy, and you connect the underneath pads with a bit of solder.
Note, I haven't yet done any of these. I was going to do the last one, but my soldering iron looks like it is giving up the ghost, and I may need to replace it. I have the other two boards, but so far I haven't attempted soldering the SMT headers.
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Thanks for the reply. I followed all the links and read what was posted.
I found the solution where the double row of 90 degree headers from Adafruit were used. I take it in this solution that the outside pins were bent back to straight pins and the 90 degree pins that match pads were left in and soldered to the pads. Correct?
I found the solution where the double row of 90 degree headers from Adafruit were used. I take it in this solution that the outside pins were bent back to straight pins and the 90 degree pins that match pads were left in and soldered to the pads. Correct?
MichaelMeissner
Senior Member+
As I said, I haven't done it yet. Hopefully Jimmayhugh will chime in.
The outer row uses straight pins that go through the through pins on the outside of the Teensy, and the inner row uses the 90 degree pins with the inner part over the bottom pad, and you solder it to the pad.
The outer row uses straight pins that go through the through pins on the outside of the Teensy, and the inner row uses the 90 degree pins with the inner part over the bottom pad, and you solder it to the pad.
defragster
Senior Member+
Pins don't unbend well - but ideally you can pull the bent pin from the header where you need a straight and push in a straight one.
There is also this OSH published solution to solder and break out all the pin https://forum.pjrc.com/threads/28835-Is-there-a-market-for-a-Teensy-3-1-48-pin-ARM-stamp?p=82298&viewfull=1#post82298 - actually there is a second in that thread as well - more minimal and smaller but solders on to pull out all the under pads.
There is also this OSH published solution to solder and break out all the pin https://forum.pjrc.com/threads/28835-Is-there-a-market-for-a-Teensy-3-1-48-pin-ARM-stamp?p=82298&viewfull=1#post82298 - actually there is a second in that thread as well - more minimal and smaller but solders on to pull out all the under pads.
jimmayhugh
Well-known member
Get dual row headers with straight pins and single row headers with the right-angle pins. Use a pair of needlenose pliers to pull out the appropriate straight pins and replace them with the right-angle pins.
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