Using Teensy 3.2 in a car

Status
Not open for further replies.
S

scratch

Member
Hi,

I want to use the teensy 3.2 in a car.
From this source, I learned that teensy requires 3.6 to 6.0 volts.

What is the best way to connect a teensy to a car battery that delivers approx. 14 volts?

scratch
 
Depending on how you want to connect this, simple option may be a USB phone charger designed to plug into the lighter jack. Even if you later pull the charger apart to get at the bare module gives you all the parts out of the box. Regardless of route chosen cars tend to be pretty hostile to electronics so test early and test often on how everything works actually inside the car with engine running to see if it glitches or otherwise does strange things.
 
There is no 'Best' way. Cheap ways (< £2), Powerful ways (>500mA), Reliable ways (overvoltage protection), Robust ways (polarity protection). Google has them all, and then some.

There are cheap ebay lighter socket -> USB adapters. This will be your quickest easiest route and lots of DIY projects seem to use this route.
(Most/all? are Switching type and can be electrically noisy as they have very little filtering (my £2 one blocks almost all radio reception when plugged in)

A prototype freindly alternative might be a 5V version from the POLOLU range, very small package and 0.1" pins for breadboarding ease.

While cars are approximately 14v as you mention, transients will be much higher than this (~35V is what I design for)
 
Using teensy 3.2 with a AGM Battery

Darcy said:
There is no 'Best' way. Cheap ways (< £2), Powerful ways (>500mA), Reliable ways (overvoltage protection), Robust ways (polarity protection). Google has them all, and then some.

There are cheap ebay lighter socket -> USB adapters. This will be your quickest easiest route and lots of DIY projects seem to use this route.
(Most/all? are Switching type and can be electrically noisy as they have very little filtering (my £2 one blocks almost all radio reception when plugged in)

A prototype freindly alternative might be a 5V version from the POLOLU range, very small package and 0.1" pins for breadboarding ease.

While cars are approximately 14v as you mention, transients will be much higher than this (~35V is what I design for)
Click to expand...

Hi Darcy,

thanks for you comment and I'm sorry for not being very precise. I do not know why but for some reason I thought it is a simple question ...

So here are the facts/details:
  • I want to control some stuff (dimmable LEDs/LED Stripes and some temperature/photo sensors) in a Van
  • ~12V stuff (LED Lights and LED Stripes) will be powered by the battery directly and controlled using MOSFETs on PWM Pins
  • ~3.3V stuff (switches, buttons & sensors) will be powered by the teensy - not to much stuff, don't worry
  • The circuit is completly seperated from the cars electronics
  • This is the powersource

What do I need:
An energy efficient way (not losing to much power for heat), to connect a teensy 3.2 to this battery - actually it will not be connected directly to the battery, but there will be this battery protector, a plus distributor and some fuses in between at least

Even the title of my thread is very misleading. Again I'm very sorry for that!

scratch
 
Last edited:
sorry to tell you 12volt led strips wont last long on the car before they start failing, the alternator voltage and spikes will start killing the strip within 2 weeks. you need a voltage stabilizer, if you followed defragster’s post link he posted here to other thread, you would see the adaptor i recommmended earlier, where it takes 8-40volts input and outputs a clean 5v 30A power for the devices. For the led strip you can get one they have 12’V 6Amp output of same stabilizer. from experience, especially with the 5V version running the majority of the circuit of teensy and all IC and 5V displays and servo, the single 5V30A stabilizer does an amazing job without hiccupping when cranking the vehicle. Don’t go cheap with cigarette usb power or pololu, go with something that will solve issues before they occur later on.
 
tonton81 said:
sorry to tell you 12volt led strips wont last long on the car before they start failing,
Click to expand...

But the OP does say 'The circuit is completly seperated from the cars electronics', which would infer that it is not charged by the altenator, in which case I guess the supply would be pretty clean.

That battery is a monster! - 74Kg!
 
Darcy said:
But the OP does say 'The circuit is completly seperated from the cars electronics', which would infer that it is not charged by the altenator, in which case I guess the supply would be pretty clean.
Click to expand...
Yes, no alternator involved.

Darcy said:
That battery is a monster! - 74Kg!
Click to expand...
Yes, but as there is also a small fridge connected to it. It won't last to long :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top