Here's a revised pinout card:
- Added CS1 to pin 0
- Added MISO1 to pin 1
- Reduced the size of the gray digital pin number bubbles
- Rearranged the blue & green bubbles on the left side
- Swapped locations of CRX1/CTX1 and MCLK1 for readability
- Changed S/IN & S/OUT to SPDIN & SPDOUT for consistency
PDF: Pinout.pdf
That card looks to be nice and readable and good details. Looks nice from laser - and my color printer did a good job in BEST mode.
The other PDF/CSV files look great too. THough the PIN PDF on card size would take a magnifier to read
Looks Good, I also like your Mux table on the other page.
Thanks lowglow for the spreadsheets and pinout charts, especially the ALT0 to ALT9, ADC & ACMP one. Thanks too for mentioning the part numbers for the Samtec low-profile socket strips and male headers.
loglow,
at this point i'm just happy that i kinda slacked off about getting the connector soldered to the teensy the past week and that you included the thickness detail about the flex and the connector you use in your post. now i have good reason to just chill until your stuff is ready. i like the idea of a lock tab even though i always stress about breaking it. so, thanks for the hard work and for providing the excellent info charts.
lowglow, can you suggest where I can order the Samtec connectors?
For the low profile sockets, I found single row, 40 holes, SLW-140-01-T-S and 5 x 2 row (D) SLW-105-01-T-D at element14.
I used the configurator at Samtec for the MTSW (https://www.samtec.com/products/mtsw) straight headers, single row. I think these would be difficult to find at element14, Mouser etc. in the specific pin length you mentioned "170". (MTSW-1**-07-F-S-170) Mouser has thousands of MTSW types in stock but as far as I know none of this length or close to it, though as far as I know, there's no automated way of searching for this. With the configurator, I selected MTSW-150-07-F-S-170 and added 3 to my shopping cart Samtec. Likewise for the 5 x 2 internal pin strip, with the bent ends for SMD, I ordered 6x TSM-105-01-F-DV.
However, I haven't placed the order because the unknown and likely high expense of shipping to Australia, I guess from the USA. It seems from the order summary that they might ship each set of items separately, with UPS Express or some other method, all of which I guess would make more sense for $100+ orders, than for this little $6.62 order.
The back of the pinout card will have the dimensional drawing on it.Originally Posted by defragster
THough the PIN PDF on card size would take a magnifier to read
The mux table will be printed on legal size paper (8.5 x 14) so will be easy to read.
I order these headers directly from Samtec. Their online ordering is fine overall, but very annoying when it comes to shipping costs since it doesn't calculate them for you, so you just have to guess. I've had some mixed results over time, but it seems like I'm usually charged the following shipping rates:
- 1.2% of the order total for UPS Ground (to United States)
- 5.0% of the order total for UPS Next Day (to United States)
However, a few times they've charged me a flat $15 shipping fee. I have no idea why, and there was no detectable pattern to it. When I inquired a while ago, I received answers from them that were inconsistent and confusing. For the last year or so, I've been pretty consistently billed according to the percentages above.
This probably doesn't help you much in terms of shipping to Australia though, but it couldn't hurt to contact them and ask. Be as specific as possible.
Alternately, I'd be happy to order and then mail you whatever you want from them. USPS First-Class International is $13.54 for anything up to 8 oz.
That sounds good.
The link on card to : www.tall-dog.com - takes a click on included Tindie Icon to get to the store to get to the product … good to add a way to get direct to breakout selection?
I just followed that link - then I noticed the T_3.6 breakout I ordered has headers for fixed T_3.6 attachment and there is a second kit not linked on that page for socket assembly.
Question: Adafruit sells short header strips they call 5mm tall - the samtec female drawing shows 4.57 - if those are accurate numbers a bit shorter and not interchangeable - and for T-3.6 BB would take a taller POGO pin - but not matter on the T4 BB?
I don't think the (stated) 0.43 mm difference would matter in practice, and I suspect that the same pogo pins would still work too.
Keep in mind that to fully socket the Teensy (3.6 or 4.0) you'd have to order a handful of those Adafruit ones and then carefully trim them all down to size.
For anyone in the United States, I'd suggest just ordering headers from Samtec directly. They'll even send you samples for free!
USPS tells me a label was printed to my place from what seems to be your place - that sounds promising. Lots of T4's out there already that will need a good place to settle in - and more on the way once the next restock happens from batch #3.
@loglow : How many T4's have you bottom pad soldered? You should include a good pic of one with notes on SMD proximity to the odd bottom pads. This prior pic gives a good idea of the proximity:
Attachment 17418
When I get the TallDog BB's I'll look at ordering what looks useful - I like those short headers - and proper length without hacking and trimming in fixed spaces would be nice.
Last edited by defragster; 09-07-2019 at 07:35 AM.
Phoenix is a good source of low profile .1" headers.
https://www.peconnectors.com/pin-hea....100/hws16317/
https://www.peconnectors.com/female-...-.100/hws9446/
Those female headers look to have scoring indents like the male style do :: ".180" (4.57mm) BODY HEIGHT EASY-CUT BODY STYLE "
Yup. Not cheap, tho. Worth it, IMO
got my breakout kit, I dont think I have any socket headers in my pile of parts, what ones do I need so the teensy can be removed. I had already put pin headers on the sides of my teensy so my soldering is going to be a bit harder.
but it looks fairly easy to solder. I hope. my eyes arent as good as they used to be
Kit arrived here as well. Small! It looks much bigger in the pictures.
Noted in package: 'assembly instructions TBD'. Suppose for Beta: Cut VIN<>VUSB trace, and follow pics posted in #59/#60.
The 2x2 male pin header - from p#60 - to answer my question:
To use female sockets "so the teensy can be removed" it would look like this p#60 picture:I might use a 4-pin (2x2) header with one pin removed for the corner with VUSB, instead of a 1-pin header (which is less stable during assembly).
The assembled (socketed) breakout without Teensy:
Attachment 17416
okay found those female headers, too bad shipping is a ripoff but eh..
3 of them and shipping is more than the items.
No time but felt compelled to start before OOF the next two days.
Rigged up a perf board with pins and cross pins to hold the 10 pad under 2x5 in place and soldered the far end - used some solder paste as it comes with great flux properties - very tight fit. They went well - went to the other end and the pin ends were just over the pads. a couple more drips of paste after nipping off the pin tips for clearance. Soldered and a brush and rinse with 90% isopropyl and then hair dryer heated to what I could hold and then let it sit. Powered up and used @KurtE's PinTest and have connectivity on the 10 #24-#33 and no shorts showing.
Then tinned the USB pads - didn't pin the SDIO pads for fear of lifting it oddly? Then taped the SDIO end and using wire solder soldered the USB D+ and D- - dipped the solder tip in my tub of paste flux - pulled the tape off and went to SDIO end and repeated starting in the middle. Re heated each at least once and held ribbon down with back of curved tweezers. Did pin test just now and the flex cable tip has expected output to blink LED #34-#39.
Didn't have trouble with bridges on either end - and managed to not hit or involve the center SMD parts. And since the Pin Test runs on the Teensy it is still usable.
Oh - here is KurtE's pin test - I modified the Next_Pin logic. Send a USB Serial '+' to increment and '-' to decrement and enter a pin number to set it. That pin gets set output and Toggled - so connecting to PIN_13 blinks LED. Touching nearby pins will blink LED if shorted.
keTeensyPinTest.ino
Last edited by defragster; 09-10-2019 at 07:25 AM.
I often have to replace a 1 mm pitch FFC soldered in at work and the most critical part for me seem so be alignment of the cable to the pads. It has to be the best you can make it not just close. Glad it worked out. After beta is over I'll likely grab one or two myself.
How do I tell the orientation of the TPD3S014 chip (ie pin 1)? I have examined the package under a jeweler's loupe and I can not see any evidence of a dot or a notch on the package anywhere. I can read SII (or IIS) on the package. When read as IIS the S has an underscore. There is also a long bar across one end - does that indicate pins 1 and 6?
I can'd find anything on the data sheets...
Otherwise construction is going well,,, The hardest part has been getting C2 out of its package
Re #95. So here's what I've gleaned so far, I believe that the ambiguous marking is "SII" which was recently bought-out by ABLIC. I've looked through their product line, but I haven't find a chip that might be a TPD3S014 clone.
Build progress - the T4.0 is complete - easier than I expected, even for these old eyes and shaky hands. I used perf board to build jigs to hold things in place until I tacked them down with solder. The T4 just drops easily into place on the breakout. I was dead scared of the ribbon connector, but that was much easier than expected, Just be quick with soldering because the Mylar is a bit heat sensitive. Use flux, tin the pads, use solder wick to remove excess, more flux, and then reflow. I was able line up the pads visually under a large magnifier and use a finger to hold the ribbon in place while I tacked one connection at a time.
On the breakout, I have the SMD components on the underside (except the chip) but don't want to move to the top side before finishing the bottom.
looking at the one image in post #59How do I tell the orientation of the TPD3S014 chip (ie pin 1)? I have examined the package under a jeweler's loupe and I can not see any evidence of a dot or a notch on the package anywhere. I can read SII (or IIS) on the package. When read as IIS the S has an underscore. There is also a long bar across one end - does that indicate pins 1 and 6?
I can'd find anything on the data sheets...
Otherwise construction is going well,,, The hardest part has been getting C2 out of its package
https://forum.pjrc.com/threads/57122...l=1#post213759
the line infront of the SII does indicate pin one. I could be wrong though. so be carefull.
@firehopper
Wow! You sure have good vision - thanks! Even when I magnify the image I can just make out might be the blurriest of the letters SII. But yes, the bar is in the right place, so I'll go with it. I hope/guess if Dan wired it that way it MUST be right...looking at the one image in post #59
https://forum.pjrc.com/threads/57122...l=1#post213759
the line infront of the SII does indicate pin one. I could be wrong though. so be carefull.
Hopefully I'll be testing tomorrow...
cool I gotta order some low profile headers, and since I cant find my flux pen, one of those too before I can assemble mine.
might have to order a teensy 4.0 because I already soldered pin headers on mine.
Ok finished soldering what i could on the bottom side of the board. SMD components were easier than i thought they would be to solder. Only thing i am having major problems with is the battery holder - just can't seem to get to stick with the solder - is there some trick. Other thing is i lost the TPD chip - just ordered a couple more from Digikey so will have them in a few days. Will probably find it before the other parts get here.
As a newbie to SMD soldering (yes this is my first time soldering those small resistors and capacitors) the following came in real handy (almost a necessity for something like them if you don't already have them):
Kester 186 Soldering Flux Pen
Stickvise PCB Vise - Thanks to Paul for pointing this out somewhere in these threads.
Brightech LightView Pro Flex Magnifying Lamp - 2 in 1 Clamp Table & Desk Lamp
UPDATE: Finished soldering the top side, again wasn't too bad. Only thing I would suggest is that extra instruction on how to solder the SD Card connector be added. Found I had to remove the cover to do the soldering then had to replace.
Now to get some coffee and tackle the piece I have been dreading - the flex cable
Last edited by mjs513; 09-11-2019 at 12:58 PM.
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