Teensy 4.0 Breakout Kit

@loglow
Seem to be having a problem with FlexCAN. Can seem to get it to work. Not sure it my soldering or want.

Is there a enable pin for the 2558 or is it on by default? Am assuming its CAN-FD pins.
 
CANFD working now. Ok, re touched the solder connections and retest and it is now working no problems using the sample sketch that is included in the library.
Code:
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EDIT: Tried a couple more complicated sketches as well and all is working well.
 
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@loglow - if I'm seeing this right: View attachment 17144

The one end hits the SDIO pads on the T4 and passes over the USB Host D+/D- and those pads are all soldered through the holes taking the signals to the far end for offboard use? That looks very cool if it works for a 50 cent flex part!

Boy, I'd love to find where you can get those flex boards done for 50 cents each. I just priced a bunch (okay, slightly larger) and they were $25 each.
 
@loglow - Cannot wait for the launch of this. I will order a fully assembled unit with all the fixin's. Thanks for all yours and the others hard work at getting this done:)
I had no problems with your T3.6 breakout board and I am still using it.

Warren
 
Boy, I'd love to find where you can get those flex boards done for 50 cents each. I just priced a bunch (okay, slightly larger) and they were $25 each.

I've ordered them from PCBWay (pcbway.com) and ALLPCB (allpcb.com).

At a quantity of 100 pcs, the latest batch was $0.68/pc from ALLPCB. They don't quote flex cables online, you have to email them.

You can quote interactively online with PCBWay, but the pricing is very different. At this size (24 x 9 mm):

  • 1-234 pcs for $111 (range of $111 to $0.47/pc)
  • 235-468 pcs for $133 (range of $0.57 to $0.28/pc)
  • 469-702 pcs for $156 (range of $0.33 to $0.22/pc)
  • and so on
But you have to find these price "tiers" by trial-and-error.
 
@loglow - Cannot wait for the launch of this. I will order a fully assembled unit with all the fixin's. Thanks for all yours and the others hard work at getting this done:)
I had no problems with your T3.6 breakout board and I am still using it.

Warren

Awesome! :D Thanks
 
So, I think with USB, SD, and CAN all confirmed good, I'm about ready to pull the trigger on the first batch of kits.

Any last-minute thoughts or feedback?
 
Put the order information on your website :)

Nah, I'm not into selling stuff that I don't have on-hand yet. They'll go up on Tindie when they're actually ready to ship. Timeframe for assembly is ~1 month.

In the meantime, if you're interested in buying a kit or an assembly, just shoot me a note and we'll arrange for something hand-soldered.
 
Card Issue - and a bit of Mind …. Grief :confused: … Thanks Dan :(

Two of these things are not like the other one : Flex Cable Silkscreen … if I have the right side up in soldering matched the Teensy Card back!

Okay Confirmed with now hidden T4 silkscreen on a separate T4 - TallDog Card is wrong and soldering is right … Not just me than flips top and bottom ...

The included "A3" card has the SDIO pins order swapped in the image:
CardSwapSDIO.jpg
 
As indicated in p#387 I did a bit more soldering - decided to do some tests … Remember with VIN<>VUSB cut the T4 as pictured will appear dead when plugged to USB … because it has no power.

Quick connect of the cut pads shows it to power up the pre-loaded HI_LO sketch.
 
@loglow - Late yesterday I finished assembling the new board. So far so good! - I did run the Hi_LO test and had found one or two of solders of the SMD connector needed some touching up.

I do like those low headers! May need (want) to find where to order some for the different Teensy setups.

The assembly was a lot nicer than the V1 boards. I appreciated how much easier it was to for example solder on the SDCard adapter as well as the ribbon connector. The ribbon appears to be a lot less error prone. And likewise the larger chip for the USB power was a lot easier to solder. I did lose one capacitor as I gripped it wrong with tweezers and it shot out. Luckily I have other caps...

Again a lot nicer!
 
So, I think with USB, SD, and CAN all confirmed good, I'm about ready to pull the trigger on the first batch of kits.

Any last-minute thoughts or feedback?

I'm waiting to test your assembly instructions. I'll be using a preheater and heat gun to solder the surface mount stuff.

If you happen to have pre-printing data available, that will work just fine.
 
So, I think with USB, SD, and CAN all confirmed good, I'm about ready to pull the trigger on the first batch of kits.

Any last-minute thoughts or feedback?

If possible, include an extra screw or 2. I seem to be prone to tiny screws falling on the ground and not being able to find them again. Fortunately, I had some plastic M2 screws that I could use.
 
If possible, include an extra screw or 2. I seem to be prone to tiny screws falling on the ground and not being able to find them again. Fortunately, I had some plastic M2 screws that I could use.

Yes, those small parts are hard to sort/id and handle - soldering them went well with tweezers sliding the into hot solder on the one end. Was wondering if a unique color magic marker stripe (before cutting apart) on the white pack parts would be easy enough for a reference? Harder on the black ones - but at least those chips have labels

Was handy having the standoffs included. I put them on the bare board and so far they have not been in the way during assembly but help keeping it stable for soldering.

I'll finish up the first one and do the other when the TallDog assembly guide is posted.
 
@loglow,
Will you be selling spare flex-cables when the kit is released? That would make it a lot easier to replace a wonky T4 on the breakout. I know it's possible to carefully remove and replace a flex-cable (I've done it), but I would feel more secure with having a new spare on hand for when disaster strikes (as it inevitably will :rolleyes: - story of my life...).
 
Finished socket and pin soldering the TallDog A4 board, got the tall pins over T4 to hold the Audio bottom female headers okay ( not tested ).

Missed soldering the internal VUSB and it failed until I added the melted metal connection stuff.

Most all seems well after that - are 30/31 affected by CAN resistor? Why is Pin #6 associating with pin #31 with High_Low test?

here is summary info:
PULLDOWN :: TEST to 3.3V << USB Send Enter to Toggle Up/Down Test
d#=31 val=1
d#=30 val=1,

PULLDOWN :: TEST to 3.3V
d#=6 val=1,d#=31 val=0,>>> MULTI CHANGE !!
>>> MULTI CHANGE !!

>> Temp during Hi_Lo test was low and good.
>> POWER button : Good
>> Power switch : Good

---- ...\SD\examples\CardInfo\CardInfo.ino
Initializing SD card...Wiring is correct and a card is present.
Card type: SDHC
Volume type is FAT32

---- USBHost Mouse works : a wireless dongle MSFT mouse

Not sure where working USB Host Disk and Ethernet samples are - but the mouse worked.
 
@ETMoody3 Are you going to use solder paste and just apply it without a mask, letting surface tension draw the paste off the solder mask? I've seen videos of this being done and it seemed to work well. I'm thinking of buying a hot-air rework station, so I'll be interested to hear how it for you.
 
My problem has always been what airflow to set and temperature with those stations. Any suggestions?
 
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