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Thread: Teensy 4.0 Breakout Kit

  1. #101
    Senior Member+ KurtE's Avatar
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    @mjs513 @talldog - I have not started soldering yet, but I also noticed the TPD chip missing (I think) will double check. I put everything into a bowl when I opened up the envelope and did not see it. Waiting for a day when my hands and eyes and feel right...

    So the cover comes off the SD-card adapter? That might make it manageable...

  2. #102
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    Assembly is complete, but I haven't yet powered it up. The following are my comments on the kit, and how to assemble it:

    1) This is definitely NOT a kit for the inexperienced. I have many years of electronic design and hand SMD soldering construction, and everything went well until the very end when it came time to add the flex and SD connectors. With their tiny tabs these are hard enough to solder on their own, but they are so close together that it becomes very, very difficult to get a soldering iron between them and to see what you are doing. I have a good quality soldering station with a small chisel tip, and yet i found it extremely difficult to work without creating solder bridges, and getting solder braid down into the gap to clean things up without seeing what/where I was working was very difficult. Not for the faint of heart...

    2) I think some care needs to be given to the size of parts supplied in kits for hobbyists. Example C2 is just a bit small. Maybe a minimum of 0805? Also, while it didn't happen here, we have all had the experience of small parts flying out of tweezers never to be seen again. I was pleased to see a spare 4k7 pull-up, but it would have been good to see at least one spare for each of the two caps.

    3) Assembly of the T4 was fine. It is very important, however, to make sure that all pins are accurately located otherwise it will be very difficult/impossible to drop the T4 on to the breakout. For example, for the long side headers I installed them on a breadboard, then dropped the T4 on and soldered the end pins, checked the fit, then soldered the rest of the pins. I then used scraps of perf-board to locate the SMD 2x5 header as I tacked it to the T4. The result: the T4 drops right in to the breakout very easily.

    4) Be careful not to use too much heat when soldering the flex-cable.

    5) The orientation of the TPD3S014 chip needs clarification ASAP (see my posts above).

    In summary, the kit is not an easy one to construct. If I was to start over I would either leave off the SD socket and/or the flex connector socket. Since this is a prototype I did not want to permanently install the T4 (just in case), and have it plugged into female headers on the breakout.

    So I'm off to power-up and see if blink works. Wish me luck

  3. #103
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    @KurtE
    The chip is in a very small black plastic carrier that looks very similar to the black 0.1" jumper. I at first confused it for a jumper...

  4. #104
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    @DerekR (oops made typo just corrected)
    I agree with your write-up completely. That is pretty much what I found as I was assembly the board with the SMD components. Flex cable connector was not bad but when I added the SD socket started having some challenges. Thanks for the tip on the flex cable Kurt. I have a half height 2x5 connector for the underside pins so don't have to worry about putting 2 singles together. As for the under side 2x5 smt connector found if I tinned each pin then held one side in place with a female header across the t4 then soldered it works fairly reliably.

    As you said - this board is not for the faint at heart.

    Yep - just found my TPD that I thought I lost - thought it was a jumper as well. Putting the chip under a magnifier the line showing where pin 1 is was so faint almost missed it.

    Also the edge pins on the board - middle row GND outside row Power?
    Last edited by mjs513; 09-11-2019 at 08:26 PM. Reason: Corrected name

  5. #105
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    Well I screwed up my T4 so full testing will have to wait. I wound up lifting the lands on the 2x5 smd pins while trying to fix it. Forgot to test fixt it first . Started it at 5 in morning should have taken a nap first. Any should have still worked but must have a short somewhere on the T4 since when I plugged it in nothing - dead a door nail. And before any one asks 15s restart did do anything.

    So since I had the board finished I had another T4 with only the outer edge pins attached but when I put that in the breakout board it connected then immediately disconnected. So another issue somewhere on the breakout board that I have to trace.

    I do have another couple of T4's coming from OSH Park but will need another flex cable. So guess time to order one.

  6. #106
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    Well, it blinketh most brightfully. BUT a couple of fails as well.

    1) There is no way you can put a battery in the holder once everything is assembled and the long side headers are installed. so I unsoldered one tab on the holder, slipped the battery in and soldered it down again. VBAT is reading 1.13v.
    I have no (current) need for VBAT, but it will be interesting to see how long it lasts,

    Does anybody have a simple .ino that I can use to test it's working?

    2) I had a helluva time trying to insert the flex cable into its connector. I spent just on an hour trying to do it. The problem is that the cable is just a smidge short when the T4 is inserted into normal height female headers, which were all I had on hand. If you insert the cable first you can't get the T4 pins into the header, and if you get the T4 seated first its difficult to manipulate the flex into the connector because you can't see what you are doing. The single header for V_USB also gets in the way. I finally got it using angled tweezers, but I fear I may have damaged the USB connections to the flex along the way.

    I ran a fast version of "blink" on all the pins (one at a time) and looked at the output on the scope. All worked great EXCEPT for 35,36, and 38 These are, of course, connected via the flex connector - so something is messed up there. I can't tell if it is my soldering, or the cable not properly seated...

  7. #107
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    What is the function of the mini tactile switch? I thought it was a reset/reboot?? It certainly pulls its signal low when pressed - but I can't see that it does anything. I tried
    Code:
    void setup() {
       Serial.begin(9600);
       delay(2000);
       Serial.println("In setup");
    }
    
    void loop() {
       Serial.println("In loop");
       delay(500);
    }
    There was no evidence of a pause of any sort when I pressed the button.

  8. #108
    Senior Member+ mjs513's Avatar
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    Just noticed that if you are not careful with the placement of the cable connector on the breakout the lock mechanism will hit the header pins. This means you have to move it farther back and closer to the SD Card socket. For me - that's a tough one since the pins will really be on top of one another. Really not for the faint of heart or inexperienced.

  9. #109
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    @mjs513 - I had the same problem but noticed it early enough to move the connector away - and that's when the spacing between the SD socket and the connector became impossibly tight.

    On the same issue, re my bad digital lines: I took the flex cable out of its connector and tested pins 34 - 39 again, directly on the ribbon cable. All were back except pins 34 and 35 had cross coupling - about 50% amplitude on the the "not selected" pin. I examined the lines closely for a short - nothing there, many Mohms between the lines. So I'm hoping I haven't fried something along the way.
    But when I got the flex back into the connector (it was easier this time) the other lines were bad again. So I must have a problem with the soldering in between the connector and the SD socket.

  10. #110
    Senior Member+ KurtE's Avatar
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    @DerekR (and @mjs513) Sounds like the issues I had when I built my first breakout board with the SDCARD stuff. I had issues and those pins did not work at all. So i broke the SD adapter off of my board, and I could then use most of the IO pins associated with it. Will soon start assembling some of the boards. (T4 now that I have 3 more purple ones) and the breakout board. I will probably start off first some of the harder parts, like SMT connector on bottom of T4, plus the flex cable. Then check connectivity and assuming I did not complete screw it up, will wash in hot water and then let dry for a few hours (in my case above hot plate of stove).. Then check again... This helped with a later board I assembled...

    Then solder in some of the connectors and ....

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekR View Post
    What is the function of the mini tactile switch? I thought it was a reset/reboot?? It certainly pulls its signal low when pressed - but I can't see that it does anything. I tried
    ...
    The MINI Tactile is on the POWER On/Off signal - holding about 5 secs should take it to OFF and then will power up with a ~half second press. This takes the end pin connect for that to be properly in place.

  12. #112
    Senior Member+ KurtE's Avatar
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    FYI - I have made some progress today,

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I still need to wash them and let them dry for several hours before I test them.

    And then assuming things are working reasonably will be soldering on the rest of the headers for the T4 board.

    As others mentioned some of these parts are tiny.

    Also I notieced before I put on the leads, that it is probable that if you have leads on the bottom to plug into something like a breadboard, you will probably not have room to be able to put a battery into the holder.

    Now back to playing.

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by firehopper View Post
    I dont think I have any socket headers in my pile of parts, what ones do I need so the teensy can be removed. I had already put pin headers on the sides of my teensy so my soldering is going to be a bit harder.
    I have Socket Kits put together now. Happy to send you one! That goes for anyone else beta testing too. Let me know if you'd like a Socket Kit and/or another Breakout kit along with it.

    Quote Originally Posted by DaQue View Post
    I often have to replace a 1 mm pitch FFC soldered in at work and the most critical part for me seem so be alignment of the cable to the pads. It has to be the best you can make it not just close.
    This is very sound advice. What seems to work is to tape everything down really well, so nothing moves at all, and alignment is good. I've been "backing off" the flex cable by about 1 mm so I can clearly see the very tip of the pins.

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekR View Post
    How do I tell the orientation of the TPD3S014 chip (ie pin 1)? I have examined the package under a jeweler's loupe and I can not see any evidence of a dot or a notch on the package anywhere. I can read SII (or IIS) on the package. When read as IIS the S has an underscore. There is also a long bar across one end - does that indicate pins 1 and 6? I can'd find anything on the data sheets...
    Yes, this is a TI datasheet fail.

    Short answer: Pin 1 is on the side with the long bar. Match that to the dot on the PCB.

    Long answer: I figured this out using the datasheet, but not because the markings on the chip are documented. That would make too much sense (sarcasm). What is documented, is the orientation of the chip in the tape relative to the sprocket holes, and then the "quadrant" of the chip that contains pin 1. So if you look back at the chip before taking it out of the cut tape packaging, you can deduce it from that. And yes, the markings are super faint, so you really do need a loupe to see them. Overall, pretty annoying.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjs513 View Post
    Only thing i am having major problems with is the battery holder - just can't seem to get to stick with the solder - is there some trick
    I've noticed this too. I figured, oh, this is a big component, so I don't really need to secure it. Nope! It slid around all over the place. So tape the thing down and use plenty of flux. It has a lot of surface area to heat up, so keep the iron on there until it flows.

    A note about this component: The ones in the beta kits are genuine MPD parts. I just received some generic Chinese version of these holders, and believe it or not, they're better, because they have a little hole in the center of each solder tab. The hole makes it easier to heat up, easier to keep in place, and easier for the solder to flow around it and adhere. I'm sticking with the cheap Chinese ones.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjs513 View Post
    As a newbie to SMD soldering (yes this is my first time soldering those small resistors and capacitors) the following came in real handy (almost a necessity for something like them if you don't already have them):
    Kester 186 Soldering Flux Pen
    Stickvise PCB Vise - Thanks to Paul for pointing this out somewhere in these threads.
    Brightech LightView Pro Flex Magnifying Lamp - 2 in 1 Clamp Table & Desk Lamp
    Yes, flux is a must. I use those "no clean" flux pens. I'm partial to the MG Chemicals ones, mostly because their tips are way more durable than the others. I don't think Digi-Key stocks them, but Amazon (ugh) does.

    EDIT: Yup, out of stock at Digi-Key.
    Mouser does have some: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...sg7HKqcA%3D%3D
    More expensive on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-.../dp/B01ELUI19Q

    I've gotten in the habit of just taping boards to my work surface instead of using a special holder. I use blue painters tape. No residue. And it smells kind of nice when you accidentally burn it.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjs513 View Post
    Only thing I would suggest is that extra instruction on how to solder the SD Card connector be added. Found I had to remove the cover to do the soldering then had to replace.
    Wow, I didn't even realize the SD card even had a removable cover. I'm gonna have to check that out. This part (the SD socket) is likely to be the one "brand name" part to survive. The generic ones I ordered are good quality, but they're about 1 mm taller, making the Micro USB jack just barely inaccessible when the Teensy isn't socketed. The Amphenol ones are significantly slimmer and leave just enough clearance for a normal USB cable.

    Quote Originally Posted by KurtE View Post
    I have not started soldering yet, but I also noticed the TPD chip missing (I think) will double check. I put everything into a bowl when I opened up the envelope and did not see it.
    They certainly are small. Happy to send you another one, just let me know.

    This is getting a bit long, so I'll post my further replies in a new comment.
    Last edited by loglow; 09-12-2019 at 06:44 AM.

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by DerekR View Post
    1) This is definitely NOT a kit for the inexperienced. I have many years of electronic design and hand SMD soldering construction, and everything went well until the very end when it came time to add the flex and SD connectors. With their tiny tabs these are hard enough to solder on their own, but they are so close together that it becomes very, very difficult to get a soldering iron between them and to see what you are doing. I have a good quality soldering station with a small chisel tip, and yet i found it extremely difficult to work without creating solder bridges, and getting solder braid down into the gap to clean things up without seeing what/where I was working was very difficult. Not for the faint of heart...
    I agree. The most difficult thing for me is the SD socket because of its little overhang. I'm excited to investigate the possibility of the "removable" cover, because that alone could remedy this. Also, the order of assembly seems to be very important to make things as easy as possible.

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekR View Post
    2) I think some care needs to be given to the size of parts supplied in kits for hobbyists. Example C2 is just a bit small. Maybe a minimum of 0805? Also, while it didn't happen here, we have all had the experience of small parts flying out of tweezers never to be seen again. I was pleased to see a spare 4k7 pull-up, but it would have been good to see at least one spare for each of the two caps.
    Some spares aren't a bad suggestion. Right now the minimum size is in fact 0805 (for C2 and the resistors). C1 & C3 are 1206. I think good instructions here will help people a lot: How to use flux, tweezers, tack one side first, etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekR View Post
    3) Assembly of the T4 was fine. It is very important, however, to make sure that all pins are accurately located otherwise it will be very difficult/impossible to drop the T4 on to the breakout. For example, for the long side headers I installed them on a breadboard, then dropped the T4 on and soldered the end pins, checked the fit, then soldered the rest of the pins. I then used scraps of perf-board to locate the SMD 2x5 header as I tacked it to the T4. The result: the T4 drops right in to the breakout very easily.
    I know that people have often used jigs to nail the alignment, and it does seem like a good tip. But I never have, and when a Teensy doesn't seem to want to slide right in, I'll flip it over, nudge any of the offending pins, and then try again. I've assembled hundreds of them like this.

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekR View Post
    In summary, the kit is not an easy one to construct. If I was to start over I would either leave off the SD socket and/or the flex connector socket. Since this is a prototype I did not want to permanently install the T4 (just in case), and have it plugged into female headers on the breakout.
    I regret not sending out Socket Kits to all of you, but the parts weren't in yet, and I wanted to get everything in your hands as fast as possible. I do have them all now, and can send them out if anyone is interested.

    I'm definitely going to put some real effort into the instructions, including photos (I just got a macro lens), and also include a warning about the necessary soldering skills and the small parts.

    I'm imagining right now that the regular kit won't contain the flex connector; it will be a part of the Socket Kit. When everything is assembled in the right order, it doesn't seem too hard to solder the flex cable right onto the breakout PCB.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjs513 View Post
    As for the under side 2x5 smt connector found if I tinned each pin then held one side in place with a female header across the t4 then soldered it works fairly reliably.
    My technique with these has been: apply flux, place component, tape it down if necessary (I usually don't), heat up it tip of one pad without touching the header, then apply some solder to the pad only (without touching the pin) so it sucks up around the pin, thus tacking the component in place. Taping the component removes the difficulty, at the expense of some extra setup time.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjs513 View Post
    Also the edge pins on the board - middle row GND outside row Power?
    Since they're scored and removable, they're not connected to anything by default. You have to jump signals out to them however you want them to be, using jumpers or wires.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjs513 View Post
    I do have another couple of T4's coming from OSH Park but will need another flex cable. So guess time to order one.
    Aw, that sucks. I'm sending you out some replacement parts ASAP in case you want to try again.

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekR View Post
    1) There is no way you can put a battery in the holder once everything is assembled and the long side headers are installed. so I unsoldered one tab on the holder, slipped the battery in and soldered it down again. VBAT is reading 1.13v. I have no (current) need for VBAT, but it will be interesting to see how long it lasts,
    This is definitely a limitation. I kind of imagined folks only installing the battery holder when using the board in the "carrier" configuration (without long side pin headers). Unfortunately, I don't think there's room for the holder in any different orientation. However, I could look into a different kind of holder, like a top-loading one, perhaps. Also, even without headers installed, the pins alongside the battery holder need to be trimmed very flush with the board in order for the battery to be easily inserted & removed.

    I would expect a fresh battery to put out 3V? Perhaps you got a bad one? Please double-check, if possible.

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekR View Post
    2) I had a helluva time trying to insert the flex cable into its connector. I spent just on an hour trying to do it. The problem is that the cable is just a smidge short when the T4 is inserted into normal height female headers, which were all I had on hand. If you insert the cable first you can't get the T4 pins into the header, and if you get the T4 seated first its difficult to manipulate the flex into the connector because you can't see what you are doing. The single header for V_USB also gets in the way. I finally got it using angled tweezers, but I fear I may have damaged the USB connections to the flex along the way.
    Eek, the flex cable is definitely not intended to be used with full-size (8.5 mm) female sockets, and I'm not especially surprised to hear that it's not long enough for that. It's only long enough for low-profile (4.6 mm) female sockets, or (of course) for no sockets at all.

    Is this a reasonable limitation? Or, do you think I should increase the length of the flex cable for this use case?

    Quote Originally Posted by DerekR View Post
    What is the function of the mini tactile switch?
    It is connected to the ON/OFF pin functionality. Hold it for 5 seconds and the Teensy will go to sleep. Press it again and the Teensy will wake back up.

    (Oops, just noticed that @defragster beat me to answering this. Thanks!)

    PS. Aren't these tiny tactile switches adorable!? I love them.

    Quote Originally Posted by mjs513 View Post
    Just noticed that if you are not careful with the placement of the cable connector on the breakout the lock mechanism will hit the header pins.
    Is this with a combination of using the flex connector, but without any socketing headers to raise up the Teensy? That makes sense, and is good to know, because I haven't assembled one with this combination. This is even more reason to stick with no flex connector (cable should be directly soldered to the breakout) unless using the Socket Kit, I think.

    Thank you everyone for all the comments so far! I'll try to reply tomorrow with some of my own pictures.
    Last edited by loglow; 09-12-2019 at 06:48 AM.

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by loglow View Post

    Io you think I should increase the length of the flex cable for this use case
    I would be a fan of a shorter flex cable that connects to a new extension board, that only features the USB pins and a microSD socket AND the possibility to power the microSD with external 3.3V (say with a 0Ohm connection).

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    How do folks feel about this kind of battery holder?

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    Only works with 1220 (and maybe 1225) cells, but that's the most common thickness anyway.

    Examples:

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by loglow View Post
    How do folks feel about this kind of battery holder?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Only works with 1220 (and maybe 1225) cells, but that's the most common thickness anyway.
    [/LIST]
    I use a 1220 with my boards. Only issue (or advantage?) is that you find batteries not in every tech shop, and air-shipping lithium batteries is nowadays tricky.

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by loglow View Post
    How do folks feel about this kind of battery holder?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Only works with 1220 (and maybe 1225) cells, but that's the most common thickness anyway.
    That would add some thickness to the build - but with that not only ease of battery access and isolation from the through pins as soldered - but also a non metallic bottom bumper with that insulating shroud where the thickness would help protect the other exposed pins.

    My two days away are done - need to catch up from that and finish my build. If sending another T4 Breakout and socket set is an option count me in - I want to get one of the newest PJRC Audio boards for T4 and replicate the Audio tutorial board buttons and pots and that would let me do that.

    I ordered the T_3.6 breakout and reading the directions - 'Socket kit needed for USB use' - I should have looked closer and gotten one of those, but didn't pick up on that reading the Tindie page. Let me know about including one of those I can visit Tindie if needed.

    I should know more in the next 24 hrs about finishing the SMD parts and getting the initial T4 breakout powered up. hopefully the rest will be easier than the T4 direct soldering already done. The 10 pads did test as good so they are connected and not cooked loose, and the SDIO pads tested good at the cable end as well. With the placement as I had it the SDIO pads were slightly peeking out under the ribbon so that made sure they got attached since I chose not to tin those pads. Wasn't sure about having lumps disturb the cable or having residual flux under there not get removed and bridging so Just solder and then reflow from top side.

  20. #120
    Senior Member+ mjs513's Avatar
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    I actually just ordered these from digi-key the other day:
    https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...072-ND/9921820 (have to look at the drawing) looks like the one pictured above in the drawing

    and

    https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...894-ND/9921790 (this is a simple metal one with the hole in the middle.

    Both will be here tomorrow.

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by loglow View Post

    I regret not sending out Socket Kits to all of you, but the parts weren't in yet, and I wanted to get everything in your hands as fast as possible. I do have them all now, and can send them out if anyone is interested.

    I'm definitely going to put some real effort into the instructions, including photos (I just got a macro lens), and also include a warning about the necessary soldering skills and the small parts.

    I'm imagining right now that the regular kit won't contain the flex connector; it will be a part of the Socket Kit. When everything is assembled in the right order, it doesn't seem too hard to solder the flex cable right onto the breakout PCB.
    I would like a socket kit myself. I gotta order a flux pen before I start putting mine together, I thought I had one, but I cant find it.. oh well

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by loglow
    Is this with a combination of using the flex connector, but without any socketing headers to raise up the Teensy? That makes sense, and is good to know, because I haven't assembled one with this combination. This is even more reason to stick with no flex connector (cable should be directly soldered to the breakout) unless using the Socket Kit, I think.
    This is with the SD socket, plus the Flex connector plus the low profile headers.

    Wow, I didn't even realize the SD card even had a removable cover. I'm gonna have to check that out. This part (the SD socket) is likely to be the one "brand name" part to survive. The generic ones I ordered are good quality, but they're about 1 mm taller, making the Micro USB jack just barely inaccessible when the Teensy isn't socketed. The Amphenol ones are significantly slimmer and leave just enough clearance for a normal USB cable.
    To be honest not sure its suppose to be but it slide on and off fairly easily. To be honest it was the only way I could figure out how to get it soldered on otherwise I would have probably left it off. EDIT: You could do me one favor. Can you tell me if there is a plastic or something between the cover and sd socket pins - think I know how I might have fried my t4. Without a sd card in the socket all the pins hit the cover

    Aw, that sucks. I'm sending you out some replacement parts ASAP in case you want to try again.
    Yeah it did. Thanks for the replacement parts - will give it one more try. Remember though, failures are lessons learned too.
    Last edited by mjs513; 09-12-2019 at 12:45 PM.

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by loglow View Post
    I have Socket Kits put together now. Happy to send you one! That goes for anyone else beta testing too. Let me know if you'd like a Socket Kit and/or another Breakout kit along with it.



    This is very sound advice. What seems to work is to tape everything down really well, so nothing moves at all, and alignment is good. I've been "backing off" the flex cable by about 1 mm so I can clearly see the very tip of the pins.



    Yes, this is a TI datasheet fail.

    Short answer: Pin 1 is on the side with the long bar. Match that to the dot on the PCB.

    Long answer: I figured this out using the datasheet, but not because the markings on the chip are documented. That would make too much sense (sarcasm). What is documented, is the orientation of the chip in the tape relative to the sprocket holes, and then the "quadrant" of the chip that contains pin 1. So if you look back at the chip before taking it out of the cut tape packaging, you can deduce it from that. And yes, the markings are super faint, so you really do need a loupe to see them. Overall, pretty annoying.



    I've noticed this too. I figured, oh, this is a big component, so I don't really need to secure it. Nope! It slid around all over the place. So tape the thing down and use plenty of flux. It has a lot of surface area to heat up, so keep the iron on there until it flows.

    A note about this component: The ones in the beta kits are genuine MPD parts. I just received some generic Chinese version of these holders, and believe it or not, they're better, because they have a little hole in the center of each solder tab. The hole makes it easier to heat up, easier to keep in place, and easier for the solder to flow around it and adhere. I'm sticking with the cheap Chinese ones.



    Yes, flux is a must. I use those "no clean" flux pens. I'm partial to the MG Chemicals ones, mostly because their tips are way more durable than the others. I don't think Digi-Key stocks them, but Amazon (ugh) does.

    EDIT: Yup, out of stock at Digi-Key.
    Mouser does have some: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...sg7HKqcA%3D%3D
    More expensive on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-.../dp/B01ELUI19Q

    I've gotten in the habit of just taping boards to my work surface instead of using a special holder. I use blue painters tape. No residue. And it smells kind of nice when you accidentally burn it.



    Wow, I didn't even realize the SD card even had a removable cover. I'm gonna have to check that out. This part (the SD socket) is likely to be the one "brand name" part to survive. The generic ones I ordered are good quality, but they're about 1 mm taller, making the Micro USB jack just barely inaccessible when the Teensy isn't socketed. The Amphenol ones are significantly slimmer and leave just enough clearance for a normal USB cable.



    They certainly are small. Happy to send you another one, just let me know.

    This is getting a bit long, so I'll post my further replies in a new comment.
    I've looked at the sd card socket, and while it does look to be removable, I'm worried about getting it back on properly after soldering it on without breaking it. care to share tips?

    okay had a closer look and yes the cover just slides off, becarefull when you slide it back on though, it could go lower and short the tiny springs on the cover.
    and as for the battery, I took mine out and measured it on my fluke 289 and it reads 3.2487 volts so if yours is that low, either its a bad battery or you have a short somewhere
    Last edited by firehopper; 09-12-2019 at 01:55 PM. Reason: closer look

  24. #124
    Senior Member+ mjs513's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by firehopper View Post
    I've looked at the sd card socket, and while it does look to be removable, I'm worried about getting it back on properly after soldering it on without breaking it. care to share tips?
    Here's the problem I see with removing the cover, there are a couple. If you use the flex cable socket and move it back far enough not to interfere with the sockets you will never get it back on. Got lucky in the way I placed the connectors that I had enough room to put the cover slide the cover back on easy. The other problem is the solder on the ground pins on the sides. If you solder those first you will have more problems getting it back on. Best to solder those after you put the cover back on. I am a little concerned that the cover seems to hit all the sd card pins which could cause problems if you don't have a dummy card or card in the socket.

    I just put a card in the socket now and its just enough to cover the cards pins. Another concern that the card sticks out so far that it will be easy to hit or jar loose or break etc.

  25. #125
    Senior Member+ KurtE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by firehopper View Post
    I've looked at the sd card socket, and while it does look to be removable, I'm worried about getting it back on properly after soldering it on without breaking it. care to share tips?

    okay had a closer look and yes the cover just slides off, becarefull when you slide it back on though, it could go lower and short the tiny springs on the cover.
    and as for the battery, I took mine out and measured it on my fluke 289 and it reads 3.2487 volts so if yours is that low, either its a bad battery or you have a short somewhere
    Yep - been there... Actually mine is now probably damaged... hopefully it might still work, but it felt like the only realistic way I could solder both on in that space.

    @loglow - On The IC- I was like some of the others... Thought I was looking at a shunt, when it was actually the IC....

    I also soldered on normal height sockets, so will be interesting to see if can connect everything.

    Also thought I would do something tricky to get the 1 VUSB pin, so I soldered in a 3 pin socket, where i pulled the two side ones out. Also a mistake as the front one interferes with trying to get the flex cable in... so I hacked out most of the end one...

    Hopefully most things will work later today...

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