Long Range communication to a Cell Phone or Tablet GUI Display.

As far as using the libraries, as long as you don't use any of the features that are specific to the E22 or E220, your code will work with all the libraries without change.

I have my version of Kris's E32 library in a folder EBYTE_E32 with the .h and .cpp files renamed as EBYTE_E32.h and EBYTE_E32.cpp. I just changed the file names. All the file contents are same except that the EBYTE.cpp file (now EBYTE_E32.cpp) has #include <EBYTE.h> changed to #include <EBYTE_E32.h>.

I have only done this so that it is easy to see which Ebyte file is which.

With this change:-
If you wish to use an E32 then in your program use #include <EBYTE_E32.h>.
If you wish to use an E220 then simply change your program to use #include <EBYTE_E220.h>.
and recompile your program.

If you use any of the enhanced features which are specific to the E22 or E220 then swapping between modules will require program changes.
Such changes as reading the RSSI level or using some of the higher UART data rates only available on the E22 and E220.

As far as selecting the module, personally I myself would opt for the E220.

When selecting your Ebyte module, don't forget to purchase the relevant Aerial for the module. 868/900 MHz aerials are different to 434MHz aerials.
 
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Suggested Ebyte Remote-Home setup.png
As far as your home link to phone/whatever you could use a Raspberry pi PICO W.

Connect the PICO W to the Teensy using a Serial UART link.

Pass the relevant data to the PICO W which is acting as a data server.

There are various bits of code around to show how to configure the PICO W as a WiFi Server.

As data changes from the remote site, the home site can update the data to the PICO W which will update it's Server data.
 
I wasn't confused at all just curious if the files were altered from the original which you confirmed yes they were.

I am looking into the PICO now and collecting all relevant data. I will be drawing out a diagram with all associated parts to get an idea of what all is needed. Price for me is not an issue, all i want is connection, connection, connection. hahaha! I am also looking at the ESP8266.

Your continuous support was and is very valuable BriComp and i sincerely thank you kindly. I am just glad you are on this site helping other in need such as myself. Absolutely 5 star support.

And Yes!, I am aware of the antenna's being specific and already picked out the long range high gain ones i need.

Much Regareds,
Marathonman
 
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I found this on the PICO W. It shows how to set a led on (which we don't want to do) but also setting data (temperature) on a rudimentary web page.
Unfortunately it's in Python. But it's a start.
 
I found this on the PICO W. It shows how to set a led on (which we don't want to do) but also setting data (temperature) on a rudimentary web page.
Unfortunately it's in Python. But it's a start.

I was looking at that page and while ok it seems the ESP8266 has a little more support. I may be wrong but it seems like it and dies the same thing. I found a bunch of posts about this device and web server things. I actually know less about python then i do of Arduino programing and that is very little to start with.

Suggested Ebyte Remote-Home setup.png

Regards,
Marathonman
 
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Oh and the modules, you are right. I decided on the LLCC68 chipped Ebyte E220 LoRa (Long Range) which is the newest updated one from them.

Regards,
Marathonman
 
WOW i like that book or rather ebook. It seems to have a treasure trove of information and the reviews were rather good. Thanks Bricomp for the find and I am sorry the tutorials on the Pico left me dry with most of them so mundane and basic. Sure i will have to put in more work with the 8266 but I think in the long run it will be better for me and my customer/friend as well as other people.

I have also found many other tutorials on the 8266 more so then that of the Pico so like the above graph i posted that will be the final system. I will buy the ebook and begin my schooling.

Regards,
Marathonman
 
WOW i like that book or rather ebook. It seems to have a treasure trove of information and the reviews were rather good. Thanks Bricomp for the find and I am sorry the tutorials on the Pico left me dry with most of them so mundane and basic. Sure i will have to put in more work with the 8266 but I think in the long run it will be better for me and my customer/friend as well as other people.

I have also found many other tutorials on the 8266 more so then that of the Pico so like the above graph i posted that will be the final system. I will buy the ebook and begin my schooling.
Final basic ruff schematic.

Suggested Ebyte Remote-Home setup.png

Regards,
Marathonman
 
Bricomp;

I was wondering if it would be easier to use a UART expander board for the sensors instead of taking up all the analog pins on the Teensy4.1. Sorta like using the UART as a serial bus then putting all that data in a struct sending update every five minutes to the receiver. the board like this one here.https://atlas-scientific.com/ezo-accessories/81-serial-port-expander/

So as I understand it by reading the data sheet on the expander with three controlling pins i can read one port sensor then store that data into the struct, then move to the next value on the control pins to read data on the next sensor then store that data into the struct. doing this with all the sensors then sending the struct to the house receiver every five minutes.
Or would it just be as easy to do Multitasking Using Multiple Sensor Outputs like here. https://forum.arduino.cc/t/multitasking-using-multiple-sensor-outputs/952169

All i am trying to do is simplify the wiring and possibly the coding also. Is this possible or are there other forms of a bus i can use to simplify everything. If anyone has a suggestion I would appreciate it so much. Of course i am in way over my head but at least i will get all the parts, assemble then work on the software later.

Also which type of sensors would i use that are easily set up for Amperage, voltage, Temperature, wind velocity. Yes I need wind velocity to make the panels go flat during high wind situations which i will worry about that.
The H bridge board is already designed with the Teensy 4.1 on board along with Skyworks half bridge drivers which receives it's power from the LiFePo4 batteries also which is being recharged by one solar panel.

Regards,
Marathonman
 
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You have not stated what current and voltage you want to measure and whether it is AC or DC.
What temperature do you plan to measure (range), air temp, surface temp@??
You cannot use anything like
I was wondering if it would be easier to use a UART expander board for the sensors instead of taking up all the analog pins on the Teensy4.1. Sorta like using the UART as a serial bus then putting all that data in a struct sending update every five minutes to the receiver. the board like this one here.https://atlas-scientific.com/ezo-acc...port-expander/
unless all the sensors have UART outputs, which is most unlikely. Just think can you connect your thermometer to a uart??

EDIT:
I think it would be useful to sit down and write a specification of what you are trying to achieve.
What physical quantities do you wish to measure and over what range of each?
Have you any specification or idea how each will be measured?
How often will each parameter need to be measured?
Are there any emergency situations (or combination of situations) which need to be handled?
etc etc
 
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You have not stated what current and voltage you want to measure and whether it is AC or DC.
What temperature do you plan to measure (range), air temp, surface temp@??
You cannot use anything like unless all the sensors have UART outputs, which is most unlikely. Just think can you connect your thermometer to a uart??

EDIT:
I think it would be useful to sit down and write a specification of what you are trying to achieve.
What physical quantities do you wish to measure and over what range of each?
Have you any specification or idea how each will be measured?
How often will each parameter need to be measured?
Are there any emergency situations (or combination of situations) which need to be handled?
etc etc

I agree and am doing this right now as i had all that already in mind yet did not post it. As for the sensors well i am checking into it more to see if there are more UART sensors available and if it will work in the first place.

Appreciate all the help BriComp and yes a long with the circuit diagram i am gathering all the specs i need also.

Regards,
Marathonman
 
BriComp or others;

What about a I2C multiplexer???? Will that do the trick with multiple sensors or will i still have to use separate UART and or I2C channels.??

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/adafruit-industries-llc/2717/5604376
OR
https://www.adafruit.com/product/4704

Also what about this product that uses I2C https://www.tindie.com/products/curiouselectric/dc-power-sensor-i2c/

I know what a pain in the arse but i really do thank you kindly and all involved.

Regards,
Marathonman
 
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STOP THINKING ABOUT HOW TO CONNECT THINGS TOGETHER!!!

FIRST list the parameters you wish to measure, their ranges and how far they are from the Teensy.

Thinking about how to connect things together before deciding what you need to connect together is like Putting the Cart before the Horse!!

List the data here on this thread.
 
OK, I will do that!.

Unfortunately I just ran into another problem using the Teensy 4.1. The Teensy takes 5 volts to it's voltage regulator supplying the chip with 3.3 volts. Finding sensors to fit this is really no problem but on my H bridge board I have 5 volt power supply supplying the Skyworks half bridge drivers digital input and the Teensy. The problem i foresee is the Teensy 3.3 volt outputs to the Skyworks digital PWM input. It says the digital high is at 2 volts which will work with the Teensy but the chip is supplied with 5 volts. I can not lower the chip supply to 3.3 volts because of the Teensy needing 5 volts input.

The problem is the people at Skyworks acquired Silicon Laboratories automotive division and know absolutely nothing about the half bridge chip and whether it can be powered with 5 volts and PWM at 3,3 volts. So right now i am at a major dilemma that needs to be solved before anything. I have purchased both single and high low driver chip and I guees i will have to use them as a guinea pig to test it out.

Regards,
Marathonman
 
Voltage and current sensors from single solar panel to 10 amp 12/24 volt charge controller. 0-36 volts, 0-5 or 10 amp range approx 8 feet from solar panel to box.

Voltage, current and temperature sensors from battery. 10-30 volt range approx 6 feet from battery to box. If i can get BMS to transmit through LoRa system even better.

Temperature sensor inside of electronic control box. like 0 - 150 degrees. approx 6 inches. Temp control fan installed.

I hope this answers your questions.

Regards,
Marathonman
 
You need to use these 74HCT245 see here.
I assume that that is 150F NOT 150C and all voltages and currents are DC.
 
74HCT245 Why do i need this????

Yes sorry about that 150 F and all DC.
Another problem (possible) is the E220-90022D has a top draw of 110 ma instant power draw while the E220-90030D pulls a whopping 620 ma of instant current draw which will shut down a Teensy instantly. My 5 volt reg on the board can put out 1 1/2 amp @ 5 volts so i will have to tap off that to a 3.3 volt reg for the LoRa module.
Regards,
Marathonman
 
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74HCT245 Why do i need this????
Did you NOT read the post(s) I was pointing you towards. This explains the need for the 74HCT245.
You do NOT need the E220-90030D version, the E220-90022D is quite capable for what you need.

You are only transmitting every 5 minutes. Do you think that saving a few ms in 5 minutes is relevant or even necessary?

For the current sensors you could use something like this. It requires 5V but using the 30A range model should ensure that the input to the Teensy never gets near 3.3V. Even so I would put diodes (BAT54S) from the inputs to the rails to ensure this does not happen.

There is NO need to consider using Serial or any other interface for these signals, just attach them to the Teensy Analog inputs.

You should also consider what accuracy is required.
It is possible that the voltage inputs may attract some mains hum (50/60Hz) so some form of input filter/smoothing may be required.
 
"You are only transmitting every 5 minutes. Do you think that saving a few ms in 5 minutes is relevant or even necessary?"
Do you mean Ma otherwise I have no clue what you are talking about. I was thinking of using the Teensy 3,3 volt to power it but i do not think that is a wise idea.

As for acracy i am only needing MA or MV. And also there is not ac on this line it is all DC driven system. The AC is at the the Airbnb 100 feet a way and separate system. This system is for the drive of the solar tracker only.

Yes I read that post and i see slight relevance but adding more complexity to the board. True if i added it then no worries about the Teensy inputs. If i used the TSSOP version i could place it below the Teensy. I still haven't heard from Skyworks and probably will not. They are stupid and they suck, not even able to tell me if i can use 3.3v digital input on a 5 volt chip which mind you goes high at 2 volt.

Regards,
Marathonman
 
Do you mean Ma otherwise I have no clue what you are talking about. I was thinking of using the Teensy 3,3 volt to power it but i do not think that is a wise idea.
You stated that you were going to use the more powerful Lora so that you could get extra speed out of it!

You accuracy (acracy??!) needs are MEGA Volts and Amps??
Mains hum is ALL AROUND you!!

Go into the garden and touch the input of a scope with your finger.
 
Why in the world would I need Mega volts and amps when i stated i an using one panel to power the sustain and recharge the batteries. I did state ma and mv as in milliamp and millivolt and was a typo obviously and easily to assume.
It seems I have to use the 90022D because of the power draw is in acceptable range at 110 ma....That's milliamp in case you are confused and the 90030D draws to much at 620ma peak.

As for the filtering, well most of my circuits have some form of filtering to start with so if the circuit of sensors is sensitive i will correct this in the design. Yes!, I am aware we are surrounded by electricity and NOT a fan of present day Einstein corrupt physics that state otherwise.

OK!, so after reading the link again on the 74HCT245. I think I will keep the H bridge logic supply at 5 volts and use that chip between the Teensy and the H bridge drive input. I hope this is what you are talking about. I have a total of 6 inputs that need level shifting.

Thank you BriComp, your input has been most valuable .

Regards,
Marathonman
 
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I think the 74HCT245 can be useful between the sensors and the Teensy also as there are plenty of 5 volt sensors around. If I intend to use a break out board on top of the Teensy it would be advisable to tap off the main board 5 volt supply then level shift to the Teensy's 3.3v. I changed the 5 volt supply to a three amp capable LDO so it will easily be able to handle the load requirements. Funny my ttl shift registers are at 5 volt and connected to a Teensy 4.0 and works just fine. Logic high is at 2 volts. works perfect.
I will post one more final ruff schematic with all relevant info and let u review it first before i start getting supplies together.

For the current sensors you could use something like this. It requires 5V but using the 30A range model should ensure that the input to the Teensy never gets near 3.3V. Even so I would put diodes (BAT54S) from the inputs to the rails to ensure this does not happen.

I didn't realize this and that is good to know.

And thank you again for all your help.
Regards,
Marathonman
 
Quote OK!, so after reading the link again on the 74HCT245. I think I will keep the H bridge logic supply at 5 volts and use that chip between the Teensy and the H bridge drive input. I hope this is what you are talking about. I have a total of 6 inputs that need level shifting. Quote

So after doing a little research into ttl and ttl compatible devices i have come to this conclusions.

Since we all know the Teensy 4 and 4.1 are 3.3 volts and basically anything higher then 3.6 on any one pin will kill it. "BUT" if you are trying to interface the Teensy to a ttl compatible device that is powered by 5 volts that means the input is considered high above 2 volts. If this is a one way signal from the Teensy to the ttl compatible device like i am doing to a ttl compatible H bridge driver then the Teensy will work without a level translator or level shifter. Remember this is from the teensy to the ttl compatible device not from the ttl compatible device to the Teensy.
So why do I know this, because I have a Teensy 4.0 attached to 8 Nexperia 74VHCT595 8 bit shift registers (ttl compatible) powered by 5 volts that are logic high above 2 volts and work just perfect.

So the conclusion of this post is Yes i can hook up a Teensy 4 or 4.1 to any TTl compatible device if it is one way from the Teensy to the ttl device without a level translator or level shifter.
Any feedback is welcomed.

BriComp;
Yes I realize the 74HCT245 is needed for the 5 volt sensors to inter face with the Teensy.


Regards,
Marathonman
 
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So Yes BriComp i realize you were referring to the sensors being 5 volts and using a level translator to the Teensy (I Hope) . In that case i can pull the 5 volts off the main board as it is 3 amp supply and can handle the original E220-90030D as planed. all i did was change the board supply to 3 amp instead of 1 1/2. so now everything is happy including the sensors and the second 74HCT245 to the Teensy which translates from 5 volts to 3.3 volts. That will be on a separate beakout board which houses the LoRa and the sensor connections.
Regards,
Maathonman
 
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