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Thread: is it possible to replace the 3.3v regulator on a teensy 3.6?

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Oct 2019
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    is it possible to replace the 3.3v regulator on a teensy 3.6?

    I've recently bricked several 3.6 boards...I use them in a legacy design and my stock is now running very low.

    I'm hoping that only the 3.3v regulator is dead.

    I'm assuming that the regulator IC is independent of the main micro. If so I'd like to try swapping the part. Can someone quickly tell me which component it is and where it's locate don the board?

    Thanks.

    BTW...I have no clue what is happening with this setup. I'm using the boards in a familiar way with one exception....I'm deriving 5v power using a 48v-5v converter...I've never used this particular converter. When the board fails it seems to kill itself, it's CAN transceiver and then the other micros connected to that same CAN bus. So strange.

  2. #2
    Senior Member brtaylor's Avatar
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    Have a look at this page, it shows the location of the voltage regulator on the board:
    https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/schematic.html

  3. #3
    Junior Member
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    Excellent.

    Fingers crossed that this brings it back.

    Also, good luck to me actually finding chips... :/

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajlapp View Post
    I've recently bricked several 3.6 boards...I use them in a legacy design and my stock is now running very low.

    I'm hoping that only the 3.3v regulator is dead.

    I'm assuming that the regulator IC is independent of the main micro. If so I'd like to try swapping the part. Can someone quickly tell me which component it is and where it's locate don the board?

    Thanks.

    BTW...I have no clue what is happening with this setup. I'm using the boards in a familiar way with one exception....I'm deriving 5v power using a 48v-5v converter...I've never used this particular converter. When the board fails it seems to kill itself, it's CAN transceiver and then the other micros connected to that same CAN bus. So strange.
    If the supply is critical, consider using a SEPIC based Dc-dc converter, if a such converter fails, the output is 0, if a conventional. BUCK converter fails, Vin (48v) is present on the Vout.
    Another good oratice could to add a 5v TVS diode across the 5v supply, as well as using sufficient ESD protection on all eternal cables/interfaces.

    Br Gigabyte

  5. #5
    Senior Member PaulStoffregen's Avatar
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    Can you say which DCDC converter you're using? I like to keep mental notes about which ones are troublesome...

    Years ago we had several reports of problems with a particular Traco part. It's datasheet said a capacitor was only needed at the input if running at the upper end of its input voltage page. But in fact it would perform terribly without adding a capacitor at the input. Adafruit was selling them. They've since updated their web page with guidance on the capacitor. Most people (including Adafruit at first) assume the answer to all power stability problems is adding a big capacitor at the converter's output. And that can help, but without a capacitor at the input that particular Traco would sometimes go into sustained oscillation and more capacitance at the output without any at the input only made it even worse.

    No idea if that's what's really going on here. But maybe it helps to know the issue has some up before.

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