Recent content by Dogbone06

As some of you know I made a 4.5 (facelift) that adds USB-PD (USB Power Delivery up to 12V). And it also has SDCARD. Those are the only changes made (moved the boot button position as well), hence the word facelift. The USB Host port has sort of two modes: * USB-PD, you supply your own external...

@KurtE I’ll add all the pins you want. As that will help the community. So go ahead and together with @mjs513 or anyone else, compile a table of the missing pins. Ideally you’d make a complete table of ALL pins, maybe some of the ones exposed now should be removed. That would be the most...

I’ll make a gen5 of this board, all I need from you is a complete list of pins. I know you’re very good with the pin stuff since you made those PDF’s on Git. The SD-Card uses the SDIO pins yes.

I did not bring out any special ports. All that was done was SDCARD and USB-PD. But ofc we can keep going and make a gen5 that has more stuff. But it needs coordinating, Rezo and KurtE together could make a full pin mapping, that would be ideal. Then I just follow that. It will minimize...

So I decided to make a facelift, adding SDCARD and USB-PD which supports the PD protocol up to 12V. There are pads to solder if you just want to use the second port as a pass through with 5V. Meaning, it will deliver the same 5V coming into the first USB port.

@wwatson, note that the traces between the NXP and the SDRAM were directly copied from the EVAL board to minimize problems. The SDRAM has worked nicely for everyone else. But there has been some playing around with the capacitor and speeds. Perhaps that’s where the issues lie?

@Rezo maybe you know more? You ran RGB at 24 bits.

That’s awesome! Good work :D

I appreciate that you posted the working code. Good sport!

Hello, I’m on the hunt for an all-in-one SGTL5000 and Amplofier in one PCB. There are such boards from Adafruit and others. But they don’t use the SGTL5000. I’m all new to audio stuff. Appreciate any input. Thanks!

The solder paste used on these boards are high temp 260c, it's actually very good solder. But to get something off you need a good iron and some flux. Or add a little more solder paste from a siringe (the latter is the best and easiest option). Plus side: Components sit really well and gives a...

That's nice to know, I didn't know that. Haven't used any locked Teensy for real world use yet. I just tested it and you are right, a "bricked" (locked) Teensy will in fact reappear and can successfully be flashed. This is very good! But for an unlocked Teensy it get's "bricked" if I upload...

I guess we'll never truly know as this is secret stuff. I am just happy that FlasherX can use the EHEX when removing the last part. I use FlasherX for everything these days, it's so conveniant and safe to have the device update itself. Using the ordinary way, a bad USB cable can brick the device...

Here's something interesting. I use FlasherX as mentioned before. I just did something dirty, I removed the second part of the EHEX EOF. Meaning, I removed the 200ish lines after the first EOF. And then had FlasherX use that EHEX to update my device. The device is of course encrypted with a...

Thanks Paul for giving us an answer! :giggle: