Recent content by tarzan

The pictures are good enough to see the “cold solder” joints on the teensy 3.6 header pins. I would reflow the soldered pins on the teensy PCB. First use braided solder wick with flux to remove excess solder, DO NOT over heat the PCB.

This should help you. http://cmucam.org/attachments/915/cmucam5_1_2.pdf Teensy 3.6 connect directly to SPI.

More details please. Why? Is EVL yours? I have Pixy CMUcam5; only have used with Leonardo/Zumo as Pixy Pet by Adafruit. I don’t see any reason why not to connect Teensy 3.5/3.6 to SPI all are 3.3 volts.

I’m sure you’ve had a good look at what others have done in the past; here is a couple of examples. https://www.pololu.com/blog/657/balboa-is-here consider the mass distribution around the axle (batteries) and the torque/gearing of the motors. The heavier you make it the more powerful motors...

To better understand the data you are receiving try displaying it on a graph. Advanced Arduino Telemetry and Data Visualization https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r693Xb9t4dI

Just to be clear I too used the calibration tool and tried different clock settings. The effect of reducing the clock from 180 MHz to 48 MHz on the Teensy 3.6 was very noticeable. It reduced the drift, but it was still present.

It has been over a couple of months since I received my prop shield and piggy backed it onto a Teensy 3.6 with proper headers for trial, so my memory maybe a little hazy on this subject. Like you I saw large gyro drift which started slow and speedup the longer I left it standing stationary. I...

Windows 10 Home Windows 10 Creators Update Version 1703 OS Build 15063.296 Arduino 1.8.2 Teensyduino 1.36 Teensy 3.6 Works, thank you.