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Any tips on soldering to and/or diagnosing the WS2811 strips? I'm frequently causing a short between VCC and GND when soldering to them. It might only be happening when I solder on the WS2811's side of the LED.

Alright, I'll just take your resistor advice and double check my soldering on the LED strips then. I worried mostly because there will be control lines running between the strips fairly close to my feet, maybe I'll just make sure it's slightly higher off the ground and heat shrink the strip...

Interesting, thanks! I've an assorted pack of capacitors for doing the IR anyways. And amusingly I've eight 220 ohm resistors with leads soldered on just sitting here all alone looking for a mission in life. :) I'm not too worried about protecting the 74HCT245 really, after frying the one...

I'll put a fuse on the 5V Vcc of the 74HCT245. Any thoughts on how much current should be drawn through that?

Are there any diagnostic sketches that report back information about the Teensy's functionality over the USB port? I attempted the dead bug wiring depicted on the OctoWS2811 library page, rather foolish given my skill level, but I'd somehow coned myself into buying one Teensy without pins. At...

I asked whether female pluggable 2.54 mm screw terminals exist on electronics.SE. Apparently so they do exist. If I understand all the terminology correctly, these could simply be plugged onto the Teensy pins, providing a middle ground between breadboarding and soldering everything down...

Ahh, you've addressed this question before : - Yes, I could run the Teensy off the 3.3 V pin, but reversing polarity or exceeding 3.8V will destroy it. - I could more safely run the Teensy off with 3.3 V on VIN just fine too, but running additional stuff off that sam 3.3V line might fail. I'll...

I'll read up on diode's that drop the voltage only a small amount, thanks. As for LDOs, the LP2950-50 that do 5 V out want at least 5.5 V incoming. An LP2950-33 that spits 3.3V out should presumably be wired to the Teensy's 3.3V pins, correct? According to the schematic there is no difference...

Right, I'd noticed the wire and ferrite bead going to GND in parallel on the schematic, figured one might be the sheath and one an internal GND wire. I shorted my 4.5 V line to VIN directly to the USB sheath, but probably not to any wire inside the connector. So probably my USB cable ignores...

Yup, that likely explains what they've put on both datasheets, thanks! I'll try the datasheet's recommended layout if I encounter any difficulties.

Alright, it works fine with no resistors used. So my only question now is : Would using some additional small resistor somewhere conserve power and/or let me power more stuff of the Teensy's 3.3 V pin? I guess the answer is yes, but probably not enough to worry about. As the IRremote library...

Ahh, wonderful explanation, thank you. So 5.8 V is morally the exact limit where I'm *probably* not exceeding the CPU's limits. And anything above that starts to get real iffy real fast. I haven't yet built my battery packs so I haven't yet tested this. I'll verify that the battery packs...

I accidentally touched a 4.5V line to the USB housing on my pinned Teensy 3.0, releasing the magic smoke. It runs fine if powered by the VCC and GND pins, but cannot draw power from USB for programming. I've successfully programmed it by placing an alligator clip on the USB housing that runs...

There is an explanation of wiring up IR remote controllers for beginners at arduino-info.wikispaces.com/IR-RemoteControl, which suggests wiring the output pin directly into the Arduino/Teensy pin. My VS1838B (Chinese) likes 2.7-5.5V. So presumably this works fine if the VS1838B's VCC is wired...

Alright, I suppose the IR receivers can simply be fed 3.3V from the Teensy's 3.3V power pin. For microphones, there are many boards that supposedly want no less than 4 V, but the ISD1820 takes 3.3V happily.

I'm interested in using a small microphone with a Teensy 3.0, roughly like the Arduino Wind Instrument. First, what voltages do the Teensy 3.0 input pins want? I'm aware the Teensy 2.0 like normal Arduino 5V inputs just fine. The IRemote thread suggests the Teensy 3.0 like 5V inputs too, yes...

At present, it's working fine with a Bourns resettable 500 mA fuse, although not yet driving more than 120 LEDs.

Your Teensy 3.0 schematic has a 500mA fuse between VUSB and VREGIN. I suppose placing my own 500mA fuse between the battery and the Teensy's VIN makes good sense, yes? Bourns Resettable 500mA Fuse has 0.41 ohms of resistance, or 1.17 ohms 1 hour post trip. I've no clue what current the...

Alright, thanks. I presume equipment that runs and charges simultaneously must switch completely from battery power to the charger current when charging, probably just a couple transistors and diodes to do that.

I'm interested in running my project off NiMH battery packs. Four nominal 1.2V NiMH batteries yields an easy 5V, but.. Fully charged NiMHs output around 1.4 volts, supposedly some start as high as 1.45 volts. So we're looking at 5.6-5.8 volts fully charged, which exceeds the Teensy 3.0's...

Alright, I take it I read everything correctly, i.e. DIR to +5V and OE to GND, thanks! I'm curious how one sets the voltage for going back the other way, but obviously I've no need for that here.

If I understand, the 74HCT245 picture in the OctoWS2811 page has been labeled as part of the circuit diagram. So it describes OE be wired to ground and DIR wired to +5V. I haven't gleaned much from the 74HCT245 datasheet description that "[the] 74HCT245 features an output enable input (OE)...

Alright cool, maybe I'll just unplug the larger strip sets at times. I'm doing an outfit for festivals so it needs to both put on a show at times and provide safety illumination for an extended periods, but I don't need this part automated. I'll maybe modify the library to use ten or twelve...

Thank you so much for posting this detailed description! You mentioned that "When the LED is off, the WS2811 chip consumes approximately 0.9 mA of current. For battery powered LEDs, this current can easily drain the battery" and described a circuit to deactivate the LEDs. I suppose this is...