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Paul has the schematics for all his boards posted on the store page, here.

Check through Constantin's library, you might find one that does what you want.

I've used craft-type hot glue on boards before for similar purposes with no ill effects on the circuit. The type I used stuck, but was able to be peeled off later (actually worked in my favor, may not be desirable for you).

HWGuy to the rescue on rotated crystals again. He caught my same goof (after I spun the boards, as I didn't post beforehand), which fixed a startup issue I had (no functioning crystal will do that...). Another image of the guard ring + isolated ground plane for the crystal. Note: with the wrong...

Kudos to you for the link. I had been wanting to get the last 7.x version just to have it (since I have a license for v7 that I intend to stay with - currently v7.5 installed), but couldn't seem to find a way to get to it as everything redirected to Autodesk's site and a dead-end. I can't stand...

All XCTU does is communicate over Serial to the XBee. Which is the same method you will be communicating with the XBee on your Teensy. So once you have it configured in XCTU, you ought to be able to just unplug it from the computer and connect it to your Teensy. or perhaps I misunderstood your...

Correct, you can leave the trace alone then. And 5V through VUSB, the USB connector itself, or VIN.

VUSB and VIN are one and the same if the trace/jumper is not cut. You can supply 5V through either header to power the on-board voltage regulator, but do not connect a USB cable from your computer to the board at the same time. If you do, you will have 2 5V supply outputs connected directly to...

You can feed either 3.6-6V to the Teensy via the Vin+Gnd pins (which will then drop that voltage to 3.3V via the Teensy's regulator), OR a regulated 3.3V to the 3.3V+Gnd pins. In either case you will want to cut the Vin-VUSB trace underneath the board so you can still upload code while the...

Teensy's regulator is the one limited to a 250mA output, so no, you should not draw more than ~250mA from the Teensy. It simply cannot drop a 5V input to 3.3V without thermal issues (all the extra voltage becomes heat in a linear regulator) at such amperages. If you need more 3.3V power than...

Well, I have something broken in my setup I'd say. A sensor that I've used a fair bit in the last couple of years and I am 100% positive is a Mode3 device (datasheet says so, internet agrees, and it is the only mode I've gotten to work across multiple different Arduino-compatible processors) no...

Is this a phone charger USB cable? Many charger microUSB cables only have the power and ground lines, and not the data lines, which would cause you to receive power to the board, but no communication to the PC (or Mac). I would expect the pre-burned blink program to still run though...

I guess I wasn't quite clear enough. I did just this, anything but SPI Mode 0 returns 0x00. Mode 0 returns 0x68, which is correct according to the datasheet. My question is WHY, when the documentation suggests to me that it ought to be a Mode 3 device. Perhaps I have mis-interpreted the...

Ah yes, Flash chips don't need the flag. Probably because read and write are explicit separate commands, whereas sensors have all these configuration registers and so just have the high bit to indicate read/write. I have a Spansion SPI flash chip in this project too... currently trying to port...

Interesting, usually there has been for the sensors I've used, such as this and a number of ST accelerometers and gyros. It looks like I clipped part of the quote above, here is number 5:

I'm finally getting back to a Teensy-based datalogger project of mine. Among other sensors, one I am using is the ITG-3701 from Invensense. Here is the datasheet and here is the register map. My confusion stems from the SPI Mode. I've included a few snippets from the datasheet below: And from...

ToPi, if you have one of these boards in hand already, you should have recieved an information card with it that has a note about max current draw. If you don't have one yet, see this post for more information while Paul works on getting the information into the website. Click on the card info...

Yea, I remember the constant streams of posts about issues with early 1.6.x installations... I waited those out until things seemed to calm down and jumped from 1.0.6->1.6.5 and had no noticed issues (other than needing to update libraries), until now. And yes, I was doing the Teensyduino update...

If you skim through my prior posts on this (perhaps you already did), I did just that (installed Teensyduino on top of the existing install of Arduino and Teensydunio) and seemed to have everything BUT the correct boards.txt in place afterwards. On 3 different computers in fact (all with the...

Well, after being away for the last few days, I was able to get back to my installation issue. I still could not get my existing installs to get an out-of-the-box install of Teensyduino working for the 3.5/3.6, but I blew out my full install on one computer, installed 1.6.12, TD1.31b1, and...

I have 2 machines I've been trying this on, I only have access to one at the moment, and I've only tried the "final" 1.30 off the main PJRC site on it. It reports Arduino 1.6.5, Teensyduino 1.30. I had also tried the 1.31beta1 on my machine at home last night (after the 1.30 had this same...

I shouldn't, I use the installer and not a zip/standalone setup, and any updates go to the same location (plus I've updated Teensyduino a couple times on both these installs without an IDE change). A drive-wide search for arduino.exe only turned up the expected one location, so I'd say not. The...

I'm having an issue getting this version (and v.1.30 final in fact) installed fully. My 3.5 and 3.6 boards arrived this week and last night I went to update Teensyduino so I could at least get them running in my system so they are ready when I have time to play at some point. I've had older...

It looks more like the top board was coupled to the bottom board in your image if you ask me. The lifted pads on the bottom look to match the extra on the top board, and the second set of mouse bites (to the left) look like they match on both boards too. Either way, ouch!

One of these days I will update past 1.6.5R5 and get to play with the serial plotter :) I do like the basic but functional look of this screenshot though.

Have a look at the pinout diagrams (you should have also gotten this as a card with your Teensy) for which pins can interrupt (labeled "int" in the case of the LC). As for pullups, there is an internal pullup that can be enabled using pinMode(pin, INPUT_PULLUP). I'm pretty sure it is valid for...

It sounds like you may have cut the trace on the back connecting Vin and VUSB, because they are connected as shipped from PJRC. If you have a multimeter, check the voltage on each of those pins when the board is powered, that may help sort that out. As for the LED, if you want to use SPI and...

I've had good luck with just an old electric griddle (i.e. a pancake griddle) we have knocking around here (note: don't use it for food ever again!). Stencils from OSHStencil. I bought a tube of Chip Quik solder paste (they have a ton of options, finally I just bought this to try and it's been...

As posted in reply #7: That's a very easy spec to look up on DigiKey. Pick one in the package size you prefer (I use 0603 whenever I can personally).

I seem to recall the Adafruit L3GD20 library does bit-bang SPI, instead of using the hardware SPI, unless they're changed that in more recent versions. I wonder if that could be causing the issue? Personally, I stopped using their library and just wrote the 3-4 functions I needed to get the...

The long leg will be the positive side (assuming the legs haven't been cut/modified before). Usually there will be a white/light-colored stripe on the can itself marking the negative side too. If you reverse it, and it is an electrolitic capacitor (the can types all are), it will pop/explode...

No, not if USB and the battery are never connected at the same time.

Nothing has changed on this as far as I know, and I believe Paul has said it won't happen for a while yet, if ever. I did a Teensy 3.2-based board recently, and another user here said the following:

Not Paul, but yes if you want USB Host Mode, see post #2 in this thread: It sounds like you've definitely seen the T3.2 schematic: https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/schematic.html. The MKL02 and MKL04 have the same connections (of course pins move, but same port/bit).

To your first question, it should certainly be possible, yes. Though you will still still need to solder on the pin headers to both boards so they can plug into the breadboard. It also looks like you'll be soldering a few wires to pads on the bottom of the boards. Hopefully that is something you...

The via-in-pad for the crystal jumped out at me too. Further, Paul's 2-layer routing recommendation for the crystal is to ground it to its own little ground plane that grounds right to the adjacent MK20 pin (pin 31), similar to what you can see in the earlier pictures in this thread by both...

Yes, you can feed the output of a 3.3V regulator into the Teensy (use one of the 3V3 pins). You'll want to cut the trace on the back of the board if you plan to connect USB while the 3.3V supply is connected, but you seem to be aware of that.

We actually did this where I work a few years ago for some PCB boards we needed a few hundred copies of, and didn't want to manually burn ourselves (we don't really do electronics here anyway). If I'm reading the old quote right, it looks like the charge was a flat $50 for up to 200pcs, or $125...

Well, I pulled off the crystal, spun it 90 degrees, and re-soldered it on. The pads did align such that it would work, though part of the crystal's pads did overhang the PCB's pads. Still no joy, but replacing the crystal altogether did work (maybe I didn't solder the original back on well, or I...

For crying out loud...do you have any idea how many times I double-checked that when making the footprint.... lmao. I checked for myself too, and there's no question I got it backwards. Must have flipped the thing mentally, most datasheets for ICs seem to do that, I bet that's what I did... That...

Yes, Pin 1 (dimple on the chip) lines up with the pin 1 indicator on the footprint (yours from the V1.0 lib) - that is, the dimple is to the left as viewed like in my OP. Similarly the MKL04 is oriented properly. This was in fact the first thing I checked when nothing happened on startup...

Unless you are using an adapter for the XBee that has a voltage regulator, you'll want to supply 3.3V power to the XBee...they are not 5V tolerant devices.

Definitely a good USB cable, I've used it to program other boards recently, and I checked the continuity from computer end to MK20 just to be sure. And I've tried on 2 completely different computers, no dice :( I'm wondering if the MK20 is a dud or this crystal is no good, the MKL04 is pretty...

No, ask the stupid questions. I think I had before, but anyway I grounded it, then connected power, then released. No change, including on the logic scanner. I didn't leave myself nice test points for the SWD pins like I did the USB and reset, but I was able to hold a probe onto the pin while...

Both. Re-did the recording, with D+ on Ch4, D- on Ch5, and 3V3 from the regulator (downstream of the polyfuse) on Ch6, to see how stable that voltage is (quite). Zoom-in:

I also put the logic analyzer on the USB lines, and did a couple plug/unplugs. The first image is where I plugged in and unplugged the board 3 times. The second is a zoom-in of the voltage peak following an insertion of the USB cable. Peak voltage is ~1.1V. (Saved these as .gif, they also ended...

All the screenshots I uploaded were PNGs (.jpg is crappy for reading text, which I assume is your point too) that's how they are saved on my computer and I assumed that's how they would upload, but your comment made me check, and sure enough they're .jpg on here. Weird. More interesting is the...

Yes, I used the TQFP instead of the QFN. I could have handled it, as this board and prior iterations of it has 3 sensor chips in the same 3mm X 3mm 0.5mm pitch but I'm not that strapped for space, and I'm hand-placing all these chips for hot plate reflow, so anything to make my life easier, and...

Never thought of doing it that way, though it makes some sense. Something I'll keep in mind in the future. On mine the decoupling cap GND does not connect to the guard ring, I kept them entirely separate. I see from the screenshot that it looks like it does, but it actually doesn't (I also...

I've got somewhat similar behavior to this timely thread, but I didn't want to clutter that thread up with my potentially different issue. I've made my first custom Teensy-based board (versus daughter-boarding one on), using the MKL04 purchased from Paul and a blank MK20DX256VLH7. Schematic of...