I would tend to prefer the bottom pins extending before and after the main pins (the USB and SD card should go before, and the 10 pins at the back + reset + on/off). That way you can easily use it in a breadboard or longer prototyping board. But that way unfortunately will make it more expensive.
Lets see
- Back set of pins, 5;
- Set of pins to bring out reset and on/off;
- 14 standard pins for the Teensy
- 6 pins to bring out the SD card on one side, and 5 pins to bring out the USB header on the other side, plus bringing out VUSB to be next to VIN.
26 pins per side. A little bigger than the 3.5/3.6 (24 pins), but it would still fit on a 1/2 size breadboard and/or prototype board (30 pins). If you didn't want to use the standard USB header and/or don't bring out some pins you could reduce it to 24 pins.
While to some extent your board competes with Loglow's board, it may make sense to use his pin ordering.
Or alternatively, go like the FrankB 3.2 boards, and just bring the pins out to the back:
What I'm planning on doing is soldering a 20 pin stacking header on each side. The front USB and SD pins, I would just use a normal female header. For the rear pads (which right now are the ones I'm interested in bringing out), I would solder them to the remaining 6 pins on each side for the stacking headers. Right now, it might be pins 24-27 on the right side + reset and on/off, and pins 28-33 on the left side.
Like with the other breakout board, I would suggest making sure pins that go together are next to each other. I.e. 24 & 25 since they form Serial6 or I2C2. Pins 26 & 27, since they are used with the 2nd SPI bus. Pins 28 & 29 since they are Serial7. Pins 30 & 31, for Can #3.
Assuming you have 6 pins in the back for the back pads and reset and on/off, you could do 5 rows of 6 pins for logical functions. Unfortunately, I2S takes 7 pins (power, ground, MCLK, LRCLK, BCLK, IN, OUT), and SPI tends to want additional CS/DC/reset pins that aren't fixed. Obviously for the front pins, you don't want to put anything there, since it would interfere with the USB connection.
If all you want to do are play sounds, you don't need the audio board, all you need is I2S output and appropriate I2S amplifiers.